Here’s our trip details that help us get an idea of the costs and effort that will be involved in our Grand Tour trip later this year, especially now that fuel has doubled in price.
So we bid farewell to Bright and set course for Home via three nights in Gundagai (No, we didn’t go to the Dog On The Tuckerbox)…
Our route from Bright took us through Myrtleford then Yackandandah where we stopped for a stretch and a walk up and down the main street. There were quite a few antique shops and Op shops in Yackandandah that were quite interesting to poke around in.
A lot old and replica Harley Davidson/Shell/Mobil type signs and a lot of curios as well as some creepy dolls that wouldn’t look out of place in a horror movie…
At Penny and Steve’s recommendation we also stopped by the Gum Tree Pie shop for an early lunch. Jo thoroughly enjoyed a Panang Pumpkin (curry) pie and I was quite happy with a Chicken & Mushroom pie. The pies were very deep, just the right temperature with golden pastry and mine was full of chunky chicken pieces. Unfortunately their coffee wasn’t as good as their pies but no complaints…
Their was also a smokehouse deli/butcher in the main street so we stopped in there and acquired some Chicken/Sweet Chillie and Italian Goat sausages. They sold all manner of exotic meats including crocodile, which I was tempted to get but decided that that is something we can try up in Queensland or the Northern Territory when we eventually get there…
The rest of the drive to Gundagai was fairly uneventful and we arrived at Gundagai River Caravan Park mid-afternoon and settled in for a three night stay.
Gundagai feels a little bit old and tired and doesn’t really have that much to do or see. The Dog On The Tuckerbox is definitely not a major attraction any more. That suited us fine because we’d already decided that this was going to be a relaxing stopover rather than a sight-seeing stopover.
We did go into town the next day though for a coffee and to sus’ out the pubs for our last night dinner. The ‘Sundy in Gundy’ markets were on for the first time post-COVID so went to them only to discover that there were only about four stalls operating so they were a little on the naff side of interesting. I did however score three genuine leather belts for $25, which I was pretty happy about. An Army Band was also playing some blues’y tunes, which would have been much more interesting had their been a bigger crowd.
The main street also had a very good sculpture depicting two indigenous heroes (Yarri & Jacky Jacky) that saved 69 townspeople (a third of the town) from the devastating floods of 1852. They used bark canoes over a number of days and nights to rescue people from the flood waters.
We also took the opportunity to put the drone up again to get a birds eye perspective of our van site and the historic railway bridge just behind and down from us. Beginning to get a feel for flying it and operating the camera at the same time but still a bit jerky and unco’… More practice needed.
We spent the following two days just relaxing around the van or on the grass beside the Murrumbidgee listening to the screeching corellas and chilling out before returning home to set up for the Grand Tour around Australia.
We broke out the Molkky/Finska game for the first time and Rob took the honours three games to one. It’s a fascinating little game of skill and luck and I can see us playing it quite a bit as we get around the country later.
We retained our custom of doing ‘Pub Night’ on our last night of the stay and tried the ‘Family Hotel’ in the main street. There was a good size beer garden at the back and despite being a ‘Great Northern’ pub they had Resch’s on tap, which made up for the former. Jo had Flat Head Tails and I went for the Roast Pork. Jo enjoyed her fish and I was very happy with the pork. It was the atypical pub/club roast pork with roast potato, pumpkin, kumara, steamed veges and gravy so thick you could stand your fork up in it. Just the way I like it…
So the time has come to an end for our Victorian Break. We’re itching to get going around Australia at last and break free from the COVID induced shackles of 2020/21…
We pulled into Gundagai River Caravan Park & Cabins a little after 3:00pm. The sites are very spacious and easy to back into with plenty of maneuvering room.
We were unhitched and set up in record time before enjoying a cuppa tea by the Murrumbidgee listening to the corellas screeching and squawking their way through the trees.
The amenities block was spotlessly clean and the grass around the van was lush and green. Looking right from our site we had a postcard view of the historic railway bridge especially in the evening as the sky slowly turned purple as the light faded. Directly behind the bridge is the golf course, which looked to be in pretty good condition.
Also to the right of us, on the neighbouring row of sites, was a stone monument commemorating the fact that Charles Sturt passed through this way in 1829. I’m sure Sturt had a harder time of it than us as he pushed back the boundaries of settlement.
Another quirky thing can be found at the entrance gate to the caravan park. What looks like a painted gum tree has all but swallowed a metal sign into the trunk. It must be very old given the size of the tree and that only about 15% of the sign is still visible. Most of the writing on the sign has disappeared as it is slowly being consumed by the tree.
All in all the Gundagai River Caravan Park & Cabins is a splendid caravan park. At $35/night for power and water, with large spacious van sites it is excellent value for money albeit that Gundagai is not the most exciting country town in NSW.
Despite only being a bit over 300kms from Castlemaine to Bright we managed to turn it into a fairly long day leaving at 9:30 and arriving in Bright a little after 3:00, with a few breaks along the way…
The most noteworthy part of the drive being near the Puckapunyal Army site when half a dozen kangaroos decided to split into two groups of three, of which one group decided to cross the road in front of us and an oncoming small sedan…
The sedan pulled up and off the road quickly and I was forced, for the first time, to apply the brakes fairly heavily. Instincts kicked in and I avoided the temptation of swerving to miss the roo but managed to slow the car and van relatively quickly and keep them both in a straight line and under control. I may have nudged one of the roos at the front of the car but everyone escaped with no injuries, loss of life or material damage… Ultimately I was quite impressed with the way that the van handled under braking…
Pulling into Bright I was reminded a little of Banff in Canada. A picture postcard perfect town full of autumn leave, ski accommodation, tourist’y shops and cafes along cozy streets and parks with lush green grass. And despite being a ski town it did not seem to have the pretentiousness of a Thredbo; more like Jindabyne, which is probably its NSW equivalent.
The most amazing thing in Bright was the price of fuel. Despite everywhere else being $2.23+ for diesel, the petrol stations in Bright were selling at $1.97 and $1.98. Still cannot understand how or why Bright was selling so cheaply compared to everywhere else…
Bright is one of those pretty little places that is both relaxed and relaxing. You can poke around the streets or grab a coffee and watch the people go by without feeling a pressing need to anything if that suits your mood.
At one of the Op Shops Steve snaffled a dark rough glass bottle from the 1800’s (possibly for beer or rum) that would take pride of place amongst their travel treasures. Penny pounced on a slightly tattered, red cloth covered book from yester year titled, “How To Be A Good Wife” full of practical olden day advice for the young bride-to-be. She intended giving this a bridal tea present to her soon-to-be daughter-in-law…
On our first day in Bright we trooped off to the Buckland Valley Goldfields (see tab), followed the next day by a scenic road-trip to Mt Hotham, Omeo and Falls Creek (see tab). Our last day was spent with a short excursion out to the nearby village of Wandiligong, which is another pretty little village close to Bright on Morses Creek. We went for a loop walk starting in town that took by the Chinese Bridge and back via the Swing Bridge following Morses Creek. Wandiligong is one of the areas where European and Chinese gold miners got along better during the gold rush years. We read stories where Europeans had helped elderly sick Chinese with food and care, which was far better treatment than some of the other gold fields. The Chinese Bridge was built in honour of the Chinese workers of that era.
Wandiligong is home to a massive apple orchard and there were wild apple trees everywhere we walked as well as oak trees laden with acorns and maple trees just starting to turn in colour. I picked an apple from one tree that looked a bit like a cross between a Granny-Smith and a Golden-Delicious… It was incredibly juicy and I suspect may well have been derived from a cider apple variety.
Coming back to Bright from Wandiligong we passed the paragliding/hang-gliding landing field and were treated to a landing before we noticed two dozen other paragliders circling around and playing follow-the-leader in search of thermals above the nearby mountains. The moon was out during the day and we occasionally had a view of one or two paragliders floating past it like some sort low flying medieval astronaut…
Everywhere you go around the Bright area is picturesque… It’s like a mini New Zealand or Tasmania. You could spend a lot of lazy days wandering and driving around the area without ever feeling rushed or stressed. However… I suspect that the vibe is a bit different during the ski season.
After Bright… Homeward bound via Gundagai for three nights…
So… the main reason for us taking our short trip through Victoria was to catch up with Jo’s school friend Penny and her husband Steve while they were travelling around Victoria as well. We’d previously decided to meet up in Bright and stay at the Big4 Bright Holiday Park situated on the banks of the Ovens River.
Penny & Steve had recently acquired a lovely Swift caravan and were travelling around Victoria for all of March.
At the start of our trip Penny challenged us to see which couple could find the tackiest tourist gift for under $15… a challenge we gladly accepted. Upon meeting up in the Big4 Bright Holiday Park we had the customary drinks and proceeded to present each other with our gifts. Penny & Steve offloaded us with a particularly cringeworthy Melbourne Demons (AFL) football shaped wine cork remover. We were pleased to present them with a slightly offensive solar powered jiggling koala.
Between us we couldn’t agree which of the two ‘gifts’ was the tackiest so we asked the van next door to adjudicate. They proclaimed the jiggling koala to be the tackier of the two but I think we all agree that they were both very tacky and worthy of the title…
It was a thoroughly enjoyable time spent with Penny & Steve at Bright and we spent each day touring around the Buckland Valley, Omeo and the surrounds of Bright.
The Big4 Bright Holiday Park itself is not a cheap stay but on the whole, given the location, amenities, and quality of the park it is well worth the stay. Most sites are slightly challenging to back into but one in they are perfectly level and fairly spacious with lots of shade from trees and privacy. We didn’t have a slab site but instead were provided with a large rubber ‘honeycomb’ style mat, which we thought was a fence until Penny & Steve pointed it out to us.
The park is a short walk into town along a picturesque river walk that tracks down to a public water park area including a slide into the river, a diving board, water dump bucket and various water play spots. The water is crystal clear and the temperature is very refreshing…
The path takes you past the Bright Brewery where we spent our last evening with Penny & Steve sampling their beers and cider and feasting upon pizza. Their beers were quite left field with a lot of Pale Ale’s (which I am NOT a fan of)… But I did try the following:
Bright Sour – More like a cross between a cider and a wine. Interesting but not spectacular.
Mole Stout – A stout beer based around a Mexican Mole (chocolate) sauce concept… Quite smooth and chocolate’y but not creamy like Guinness.
Alpine Lager – Too floral (like an IPA) for my taste and not crisp enough.
Jo had the Alpine Dry Cider and thought it was quite good.
Would love to go back to Bright one day and despite thoroughly enjoying the Big4 Bright Holiday Park, we thought we’d probably opt to stay in nearby Porepunkah or even Myrtleford next time.
Our first outing in Bright was in search of the Buckland Valley Goldfields, only a short drive from Bright, crossing over the Ovens and Buckland Rivers at various points. A truly scenic drive with a number of points of interest along the way including a few kilometres on dirt road into the Buckland Valley Goldfields themselves.
The catalyst for this trip was for our friend, Penny, to try and track down the location of the small settlement where some of her ancestors were once located.
First stop was the historic Buckland Cemetery, which contained a number of graves from the mid 1800’s settlers and also the burial place of a number of Chinese miners that were the unfortunate subject of a massacre a racially motivated massacre there. Unfortunately Penny did not find any of here ancestors graves there but Rob did discover the grave of a ‘Maguire’, which may, or may not, have been a distant relation.
The cemetery itself was quite well kept and had a beautiful flowering gum in the centre that was in full flower with thousands of bees working away at the blossoms as well as one bright butterfly nudging its way in as well.
After the cemetery we stopped at ‘Ah Youngs Camp’… a Chinese mining camp that is now a very tranquil and relaxing free camp area. There were still remnants of the massive hand dug Chinese open mine, now overgrown, as well as two side-by-side pits that were between 8m and 10m deep. Steve found a rock that had glistening flecks throughout and proclaimed that it was gold… Rob suggested that it was more likely to be iron pyrites or mica… Undaunted, Steve kept the rock to be assayed for gold at a later time or more likely to find it’s way into his rock collection.
From the camp we followed the dirt road up to the Buckland Valley and the site of the small settlement that is no longer there but for a shallow river crossing and the ruined pylons of the third bridge that had been washed away. It was a magically serene place and at last Penny was able to discover that this was the settlement that held a school and a church denoting the place where her ancestors were. Much to her chagrin though, very close by the settlement was a place on the river called ‘Maguires Point’ so Rob thanked Penny very much for taking him on a family journey of discovery as much as her own.
Steve continued to fossick for that elusive gold nugget and ended up snaffling a nice piece of white quartz to add to his ‘gold bearing’ rock collection. Meanwhile we took the opportunity to put the drone up and get a bird’s eye view of the area.
In case you’re wondering what Steve was doing in the video… He was cracking open rocks trying to find a quick fortune in gold that had been missed in the gold rush years…
Before leaving we had a brief chat with a Queenslander who had been camping there for a few days. Interesting young bloke who regaled us of his trout fishing exploits as well as his method for cooking them in the ground in his camp fire.
On our second day in Bright Penny and Steve chauffeured us on a day trip to Mt Hotham and Omeo where Penny was once again on the trail to try and find the place where he grandmother was born in a tent back in the day…
Our first stop was at the Mt Hotham ski fields area to take in the autumnal alpine vista available from both sides of the road. It seemed that preparations were taking place for the upcoming ski season and we were surprised by the low visibility, due to fog and cloud on the trip up contrasting with the clear blue skies once we crested the pass at the top.
Mt Hotham had a slight chill in the air but aside from the handful of resort workers was eerily empty like a post-apocolyptic zombie town, which was emphasized by the cloud rolling over the range and slowly spilling down into the ski slopes.
After a short break we continued onto Omeo… another picturesque alpine town dominated by the art-deco style ‘Golden Age Hotel’ at the centre, which started life as a small timber dwelling and was rebuilt twice after the second version burnt down resulting in the grand art-deco version that we witnessed.
Just down from the Golden Age Hotel we stopped in at the Information Centre/Library/Bendigo Bank/Centrelink office where Penny did some more searching for her ancestral links to the area but unfortunately didn’t unearth anything. Following that we strolled down to the quaint Omeo Court House and the ruins of another decent sized water wheel used to drive a gold ore battery back in the day.
So at this point we were going to turn tail and head home but changed our minds and decided to continue on the loop road via Anglers Rest and Falls Creek.
Anglers Rest sits on a bend in the road nestled in the mountain tops where a bridge crosses the Cobrunga River. Just near the bridge is the Blue Duck Inn, so named when a failed gold miner nailed his gold pan to the door and wrote ‘Blue Duck’ on it, which was miners slang for a failed gold lease… Inside the Blue Duck is rustic dining area filled with wooden decoy ducks, a fireplace and a beautiful wooden kayak suspended upside down from the ceiling.
The menu was very enticing so we decided to stay for lunch and eat out on the verandah overlooking the grassy lawns heading down to the river. Penny and I opted for a cold-smoked trout (being in the mountains near a bubbling stream) whilst Jo and Steve went with the more contemporary salt’n’pepper squid.
The trout (actually from nearby Harrietville) was superb as was the squid, washed down with beers and cider making for a rather satisfying and somewhat unexpected meal… for what seemed quite reasonable prices. Jo and Penny amused themselves by eavesdropping on the couple at the next table trying to guess the reason for their ‘rendezvous’ so far from anywhere given the difference in their age and ethnicity. A variety of interesting theories were put forward.
From Anglers Rest we continued our scenic drive through the mountains stopping to view Cody’s Hut and Wallace Hut after some slightly misleading information from the Omeo Information Centre. Wallace Hut apart from being an alpine shelter is the oldest hut and part of the Wallaces Hut Walk. It was the first ‘tourism hut’ built in the Victorian Alps. The hust is quite spartan on the inside but sleeps eight in bunks with a fireplace and small side-room with a wash basin. It would be a welcome respite for hikers walking in after a long day on the trail…
From there it was back out of the mountains via Falls Creek and Mt Beauty for quick stop and a cuppa tea near the Mount Beauty Pondage. Mt Beauty itself was originally built by the Victorian State Electricity Commission to service the Kiewa Hydroelectric Scheme and you pass over one of their dams, similar to Jindabyne dam, on the drive to Mt Beauty.
The whole drive from Bright through the alps and back to Bright was scenic from start to finish. It was an excellent day out and the food of future memories…
So… we bade farewell to Shepparton and headed off to Castlemaine. We chose a route that avoided Bendigo but through the magic of duelling GPS’s somehow ended up getting their via the city of Bendigo… In the rain!
One good thing that came from this route was that we stopped at the bakery in Huntly for lunch and had a particularly good pie and coffee. The pies were served at the correct temperature that burns the roof of your mouth and removes the first layer of skin. We also shared a bee-sting that was also particularly good.
From Huntly we pushed through Bendigo, in the rain, and onto Castlemaine. It was still raining lightly when we pulled into Big4 Castlemaine Gardens caravan park. The roadway into the park is beside the Castlemaine botanic gardens with a lovely avenue of tall trees. The van park itself is reasonably large and quite spacious. Our site was upslope at the back of the park with plenty of space to stretch out in our setup.
Setting up in the drizzle wasn’t too bad although we decided not to put the large mat down because our site was more damp dirt than grass; thankfully not muddy though. We ended up being surrounded by some other vans on the Friday as weekenders moved in but the sites were quite large with plenty of spare space around us.
Another benefit of this park was that it was a short walk to the Botanic Gardens and across the road there was a lovely old pub as well as The Mill, a revamped Wool Mill containing a number of cafes and crafty shops.
Castlemaine is quite a surprising town… It seems much larger than it’s population of 10,000 and presents as something of a ‘cosmo-hemian’ place that is a jumble of gold-fields history, agricultural, arts-and-crafts’y mixed with a little new-age and hipster culture…
It seems like a very livable place within striking distance of Bendigo, Ballarat, Daylesford and Hepburn.
Not long after arriving in Castlemaine we took a walk up one of the streets on the edge of the CBD to have a look at the Castlemaine Anticlinal Fold. This is a really interesting geological feature that has resulted in a curved arch like layer of rock that was discovered when they dug built the street back in the 1870’s. It is beautifully exposed with a plaque describing it on top and a couple of private house are perched above it.
Another interesting Castlemaine feature is the local IGA supermarket, which is located in a massive historic brick building. From the front, you wouldn’t know it’s a supermarket. The IGA itself is one of the larger style IGA’s that is every bit as well stocked as the larger chains with the added luxury of locally sourced products and lesser known labels that provide good products at competitive prices…
In keeping with our travelling tradition our last night was Pub Night… We took a punt on another out-of-town pub, The Five Flags Hotel in Campbell Creek, a satellite village of Castlemaine. It proved to be a great choice…
From the front it’s a small country village pub with a small drive-thru bottle shop on the side. Once through the front door it extends out the back into a renovated contemporary bistro serving standard pub grub as well as a range of specials. Being a Monday Night it was $20 meal night and we took of advantage of the specials having Risotto for Jo and Scallop Pasta for me. Both were excellent and a really nice way to finish up our stay in Castlemaine… a place that we’re very likely to come back to at some point in the future.
Onwards to four nights in Bright…
The Victorian Goldfields Railway is lovingly maintained historic railway line between Castlemaine and Maldon. It operates day trips with a heritage steam train and carriages (1st and 2nd class) on Wednesdays, Sundays and some Saturdays. The trip takes an hour or so through the scrubby bush and some agricultural land.
We opted to take a 2nd class carriage and had a compartment to ourselves for the journey. The carriages are well preserved but still in need of some repair. The plump padded vinyl bench seats were more springs than padding and you learned to sit down slowly rather than being tempted to flop down onto them. That said… they were quite comfortable.
The steam engine itself runs on an oil burning engine that burns any combustible oil such as fish oil or reclaimed deep frying oil making it cheaper to run than burning diesel to heat the steam tanks.
As the engine pulls out of Castlemaine it settles into a rythmic ‘Clack, Ca-Clack, Ca-Clack, Ca-Clack…’ with each ‘Ca-Clack’ also producing a bounce in the carriage seats from the well used tracks. The bouncing could be attested by the vertical oscillations of Jo’s bosom as we choofed our way to Maldon.
Maldon is another historic gold-fields town that has the usual array of cafes, curio shops and some historic sites. The first thing you see walking from the station into town is the Beehive chimney that projects over the trees on top of the hill that still has a number of old mine shafts and building ruins.
After a walk up and down the main street we stopped at the Maldon take-away and both had a burger-with-the-lot and potato cakes (scallops for us New South Welshmen). The burgers and scallops were absolutely remarkable examples of both… Best burger and scallops in a long, long time…
After lunch we started back to the station and discovered, by accident, the Maldon Vintage Machinery and Museum. An absolute hidden gem (and free). A beautifully curated set of sheds containing a plethora of historic machinery, vintage bric-a-brac, signs nad wares. Unfortunately we only had 20 minutes before we had to be back at the station otherwise we could have spent a couple of hours wandering around.
The ride back to Castlemaine was the reverse of the trip out and just as calming ‘Ca-Clacking’ our way through the scrub and bouncing along the tracks,
Daylesford / Hepburn Springs is to Melbourne what the Southern Highlands is to Sydney… a close getaway for a day trip or (dirty) weekend where you can poke around the antique shops and ridiculously expensive dress shops and enjoy an artisan latte and watching the beautiful people stroll by in their fake animal prints, expensive ripped jeans and knee-high boots…
That said… Daylesford is a quaint little town with meandering main street lined with boutiques, cafes and curio shops. To be honest we were a little underwhelmed with Daylesford. It just seemed to be lacking in ‘buzz’ and felt a little tired… maybe still recovering from COVID…
We discovered a massive antique market, ‘The Mill Market‘, 600m down one of the side streets, which was a warehouse sized building divided up into smaller areas chock full of antiques, junk, memorabilia, old/new clothes and all sorts of treasures and junk. You could probably spend a couple of days poking around it if you’re in the market for that kind of thing…
After doing the lap of Daylesford we headed out of town to the Daylesford Cidery for a tasting paddle and oven fired pizza for lunch. It was a quite beautiful establishment with a spacious garden and lots of open air, undercover tables.
The ciders were extremely clean; leaving no after taste at all… even the strongest flavour containing apple, pear and ginger. We both agreed though, that all of the ciders on the paddle were mostly tasteless ( or very subtle as we described them to the waiter ). Not to say they were flavourless, just not very fruity and had no bouquet at all… Sadly we were not tempted to purchase any. We should also add the the pizza (tomato, basil and bocconcini) was a little on the sad side as well. Hardly any basil and could have gone another minute or two in the oven. It wasn’t bad… it just could have been much better. The cidery would be a better place for an afternoon with friends listening to some live music… alas…
After the cidery we dropped into Hepburn Springs and again were a little disappointed with the atmosphere. The place itself is lovely, especially the lake/spillway area where numerous handpumps let you taste the spring water, which is slightly aerated with a very mineral’y taste. One was most notably sulphurous and vaguely reminiscent of the water in Rotorua, NZ.
Hepburn Springs too looks a little tired and in need of some enthusiasm and sparkle. Again it may just be COVID recovery where everyone is still just a bit jaded and stressed…
Last stop before going back to Castlemaine was Mt Franklin, which was basically a steep tree covered dome rising steeply out of the ground. We decided to drive up the narrow, winding road to discover that it terminated in a large bowl shaped free camping ground that already had a few tents, camper vans and even caravans set up. One hardy camper had towed a 10m caravan (1m longer than ours) up there, which was a good effort given the narrow steep access road.
Ducks and native water fowl are abundant around the lake and we encountered a group of four ducks having a bit of a disagreement and on other that sounded as though it was laughing it’s head… quite hilariously.
The gardens are dominated by a large number of oak trees that were festooned with thousands of acorns and littered all around the trunks. One oak in the centre of the garden dates back to the 1860’s and was ‘Tree of the Year’ in 2021. It was a grand old tree that spreads up, out and around with the lowest limbs being metres above our heads.
The gardens are quite tranquil and obviously a popular place for walking dogs as well as just chilling out on the grass with a picnic or working outdoors with a laptop…
Directly across the road from Castlemaine Botanical Gardens is The Mill, originally a wool mill, which has been restored as a cafe, artisan cheese and chocolate makers and ShedShaker Brewery.
Das Kaffeehaus is a Viennese Style coffee house that is richly and ornately decorated but still maintaining a very contemporary hipster vibe. The wait staff wear maroon aprons with white shirts and ties/scarves. It appeared mandatory that male wait staff have either dreadlocks or man-buns such was the hipster vibe. Still… the coffee was good served in large bowl style mugs on silver trays with a glass of water. We went back on our last day so that Jo could try the Schnappacino and I had a go at the cold filtered coffee. Having never tried a cold filter coffee (over ice) before I found it to be very mild and quite refreshing given the heat of the day. Jo was less enthusiastic about the schnappucino but that was probably because she attempted to do a forward one-half somersault with tuck into the ground as we were walking there. Nothing damaged but her confidence though…
All in all we very much enjoyed Castlemaine… It was very easy to spend a week there and would gladly come back in the future…
Chewton is a small historic village on the outskirts of Castlemaine… We decided to visit for two reasons; to visit the Goldfieds Diggings site and to have dinner at the Red Hill pub in the middle of Chewton.
The Diggings is a preserved gold mining site that contains the ruins of the Garfield Water Wheel. All that is left are the two massive stone support walls that held the massive, 22m, water wheel in place back in the day.
The massive support walls are still impressive standing around 12m high and dominating the space around them. It must have been an awesome sight when the wheel was on them and powering the equally massive ore batteries that crushed to quartz and rock fed into them to extract the gold.
You can wander around a posted track that takes past various features including the water course used to supply water to the wheel and the cyanide tanks where the actual gold was extracted from the crushed ore. Walking up behind the water wheel mounts it’s a bit hard to believe it could have been so high and still get the water to feed into it via a wooden sluice channel that fed the water into the top of the wheel…
After the Goldfields Diggins we headed back into town for a pub meal at the Red Hill pub, which was a small cosy English style pub with a Scottish bent. A fully independent pub it only served craft beers, which is always welcome over the usual ‘Great Northern’ mass produced swill.
The pub has a really nice beer garden beside it where meals are served and does live music, which on this occasion was a slight drawback… We were ordering our meal at about 6:00pm, as were most other patrons, and were placed directly in front of one their speakers. At 6:00pm they were only doing their sound check and they seemed to be one of those over-the-top, fanatically OCD amateur bands that insist on tuning, re-tuning, tweaking, re-tuning, stopping, tuning again and once more until they achieved their perfectly mediocre sound levels. They also, like all other mediocre amateur groups, insisted on having the volume precisely 30% higher than it actually needed to be. We’ll never really know whether they were any good or not because they hadn’t started playing before we left a bit after 7:00.
That said… it was a good little pub with interesting beers, good food and a nice atmosphere (if you could get the right non-amplified acoustic group)…
So I was watching the ABC breakfast news on Friday morning and they had a story on the Lost Trades Fair in Bendigo being held that weekend,,,
I had known about Lost Trades Fairs for some time but they were usually held in South Queensland. I had wanted very much to see one for a while but was not expecting to do so until after out Big Trip. Given the opportunity being so close in Bendigo we booked a couple of tickets for the Sunday and off we went.
Lost Trades Fairs are small festivals that showcase craftsmanship and artisan skills such as blacksmithing, knife making, bow/arrow making, basket weaving, woodworking, candle making, horologists (clock makers), dry-stone walling, coopering, wheel wrights and other skills that are being slowly lost but being kept alive by small groups of dedicated amateurs and professionals. Of particular interest to me was the bowyer and the fletcher (arrow maker). The bowyer had a beautiful range of hand shaped wooden longbows including a magnificent Canadian Yew bow… Yew being the holy grail of bow timbers and very hard to come by in Australia due to import restrictions. He wouldn’t sell that bow but put a price of $1200 on it, which I thought was pretty fair even though there were a couple of natural flaws in it.
The Fletcher was an interesting bloke who shaped his arrow shafts from a square cross-section into rounds by hand… not using a dowelling jig. This was very impressive, however I was dubious about his claims to flight quality given that they were of differing stiffness and not as straight as machined shafts. That said… each of his arrows would have had a ‘personality’ and a good archer would know which was which and allow as such.
As much as archery is my thing the standout exhibit for me was a clock that was just simply mesmerising in its beauty with a steel ball constantly rolling around a rotating cylindrical shelf atop a n ornate tubular shaft and wooden base. The clock face being a cylindrical drum with a frame through which you read the time and date. Truly a thing of absolute beauty…
The range of trades and skills on display were very broad ranging and every stall held some level of interest with the craftsman happy to share their knowledge and answer all sorts of questions. The work on display was magnificent from hand made guitars and violins to knives to dry-stone walls. Of particular note was the sign-writer who made hand-painted signs and was self taught from old books and the odd old-timer.
Really makes you want to pick a skill and get stuck in… Whilst we were at the custom made guitar stall a guy asked if he could play one of the guitars which the stall owner agreed to. We were treated to an impromptu acoustic guitar interlude that was worth the price of admission alone.
All in all it was a brilliant day out and can recommend Lost Trades Fairs to anyone who love quality craftsmanship and old world skills…
Only a couple of hours from Holbrook to Shepparton with a lunch stop at Benalla. Out destination was Hurlstone Homestead Gardens for a three night stay. Hurlstone is a beautifully restored homestead that operates as a B&B, Wedding Venue and is also listed on Hipcamp (a website where landholders/farmers offer campers/caravaners a place to camp on their property for a fee. Unlike most Hipcamp sites, Hurlstone offered power, water hookup and toilets, so pretty much a caravan park without all the crowds…
Hurlstone is owned by Marg and Kerry who’ve restored it over thirty years from a rotting shell into a grand homestead residence. They do nibbles every evening and guests can bring their drinks and join them on the verandah for a chat. Marg and Kerry have lived a very interesting life and had many adventures over the years as well as survived a number of mishaps and hardships. Marg has a thousand stories and was quick tell us about the book she has just written describing their life bundled into a cookbook (she has cooked for Princess Diana and other notable people).
Having wine and nibbles each afternoon was very pleasant, which generally consisted of cheese, crackers and a number of homemade delicacies from the Hurlstone gardens including quince paste, olives, pecans and almonds. Jo actually enjoyed the olives in a first for her. They were beautifully plump, meaty, salty and not a hint of bitterness.
Our van was situated on the front lawns among beautiful shady trees. It was a bit of squeeze getting into the grounds but not too difficult. We knew it could be done because Marg & Kerry had their own ‘Leader’ van (made by Supreme) that was a similar size to ours. Very possibly one of the most relaxing and pleasant sites we’ve camped on to date.
There was a wedding (170 guests) on the night that we arrived and it was held on another lawn area, 50 metres away, only separated by a line of trees and shrubs. Despite this we barely heard a thing apart from the dance music as things ramped up that evening.
Having nice weather and spacious grounds provided a chance to put our drone up and take some aerial shots of the homestead, which will be available below once they’ve been edited to cut some of the ‘unnecessary manoeuvring’ out.
Shepparton is the atypical Victorian rural town and reminds me of a scaled down version of Mildura. It is not what you would call a tourist destination but it does have a ($52 million) Art Museum and a Silo Art trail around some of the smaller rural villages.
Like Mildura, Shepparton is surrounded by large irrigated fruit orchards as well as a patchwork of farms growing wheat, hay and grazing catlle. There’s a patchwork of irrigation channels and the typical grid layout of streets with no high-rise buildings, except for the four-storey Shepparton Art Museum that dominates the landscape near the central wetlands and park area.
Shepparton feels like a relaxed kind of town although it was the Labour Day long weekend so not a lot of shops were open and only a handful of coffee spots. The major activity of the weekend was a triathlon being held around the central wetlands/park area that seemed like a pretty big deal with fenced off finishing lanes, interchange areas and a dozen or so tent stalls selling triathlon equipment/gear.
Marg from Hurlstone Homestead suggested that we visit Phillips Cellars and Regional Wine Centre, which we did on our day of departure to stock up on some local clean-skin shiraz and SSB’s. Haven’t tasted yet but reds were $10 and the whites were $8 so hopefully they will live up to the recommendation.
It’s worth noting, from a travelling perspective, that Shepparton (like Mildura) has a large fuel station (APCO) that somehow manages to sell fuel 10 cents/litre (14 cents with an IGA receipt) cheaper than Caltex and Shell. Imagine feeling relief at paying $2.07/litre for diesel when only a month ago it was $1.59. Most places we’ve noticed are charging $2.21…
The Shepparton Art Museum is a massive four storey dark, contemporary cube like building that houses a number of public gallery and is free of charge.
It is quite stark towering above the central wetlands/park area and the inside is bright, open and spacious. With a number of large galleries each hosting their own particular display
We were lucky enough to catch the last day of an indigenous display that fascinating, respectful and challenging with a variety of paintings, sculptures and textile pieces.
My favourite piece was a painting depicting thousands of footsteps with a small patch in the corner looking like it had been scratched away to reveal a GPS style map of Redfern… Jo’s favourite piece was a very large mosaic. Both can be seen in the gallery above.
The Art Museum was a very pleasant way to spend an hour or so and get a little bit culture into our uncultured selves…
Shepparton is the hub for a number of farm villages and settlements most of which have large grain storage silos. A number of these have had artists commissioned to paint murals on them depicting a significant historical aspect of the area.
The silo art in Shepparton can be found at Dookie, Goorambat, Devenish, St James and Tungamah. It’s an easy way to spend half a day driving to each location and marvelling at the images and the effort required to create them.
We started our trip at Dookie, which only has a small painted metal silo that is directly across the road from an army surplus disposal store/coffee shop. The store is packed to the rafters w.ith used military clothing, equipment and memorabilia that you could spend hours pouring over.
There’s a coffee counter at the front operated by what may be Australia’s quirkiest barista. He looked like he was probably an army vet and had AC/DC cranking out at high volume while he stopped every now and then for a sip of coffee and dance. He asked Jo to serve four coffees to some of the outside customers while I wrote our order for him inside. A genuinely funny bloke with a quick wit. He offered Jo the waitressing job when we left
We continued our tour of the art silos via Gorambat, Devenish, St James and Tungamah; each location’s silos being distinctive with their own stories to tell. The silos are a must do when in Shepparton.
Shepparton is home to the Australian Botanic Gardens, which is formed up as a long mound situated on a former landfill site. It showcases Australian native plants on series of paths winding up and around the mound.
It’s still very much a work in progress but is extensively planted and maturing into a diverse display of Australian flora.
The botanic garden grounds also contain a bushwalk area that meanders through the scrub and past a small wetland area where we were lucky enough to see a spoonbill wading in the muddy brown water and swinging is beak side-to-side in search of food. There are also some rusty steel sculptural pieces along the track, which is not far from the railway line with glimpses of a passing freight train that could bee seen through the trees.
The Australian Botanic Gardens are located on the edge of town and well worth a look when staying in Shepparton.
So away we go… Only four hours or so to Holbrook, the town with the submarine on the main street.
Got away around 10:00 and drove to Jugiong for a lunch stop at the Long Track Pantry. I had a Reuben and Jo had a Chicken Wrap… both very enjoyable and generous in size. Great place to stop for a bite or to camp over the road in the very extensive riverside campground run on donations.
Back on the road quickly to Holbrook for an overnighter at the Riverina Hotel. The ‘Riv’ is a part of Country Pub Camping, a website where pubs around Australia offer (mostly) free caravan parking in return for having a meal and a drink there. We stayed at the ‘Riv‘ for our first ever night in the van when we drove it back from Melbourne after picking it up. Great country pub with locals and blown-ins like us… Good food and cold beer. There were four other vans parked out the back at 2:30 and we were lucky to snaffle the last place along the fence otherwise we’d have been down the road to the caravan park or looking for an alternate free camp.
The ‘Riv’ does classic pub meals and pizzas and is obviously a focal point for Holbrook. I had the ‘Steak Schnitzel (Devils)’, which was basically half a dead cow, crumbed and topped with sweet chili sauce, melted cheese, laying on a heap of chips and steamed veg… Jo had her usual Calamari working on the idea that Holbrook is hundreds of miles from the coast but if it has a submarine in the main street then the seafood must be really fresh…
Full bellies, a beer and a wine and time for an early night… The first night in the van is always the best sleep ever and we both went down for nine-and-a-half hours of unbroken sleep.
Next morning, we took a stroll up the street for a coffee and to take a look at the ‘HMAS Otway’. Having been to Holbrook a few times it was good to see the Otway again but this was the first time we actually walked along the deck. It’s usually covered in screaming kids… This time it wasn’t.
That killed enough time to head back to the van, batten down and head off for the drive to Shepparton via Benalla…
So… thanks to the incompetence of the Berejiklian Government in handling the Delta outbreak in NSW, once again our Grand Tour travel plans were thrown into complete disarray. Instead of heading off in September we were, like everyone else, forced to hunker down and go nowhere until vax rates were high enough to open up again.
As ‘Freedom Day’ arrived we decided to take wait a few weeks and then take the plunge and head away for four nights to somewhere quiet to get used to the van again and see something else instead of our home. We decided on Grenfell, being only three and a half hours drive and nicely out of the way…
The drive out was fairly straight forward although we kept getting an annoying ‘Low’ warning from our van’s braking system that was more than likely a poor/wet connection in the cable. The Grenfell Caravan Park is a cosy little park with 22 van spaces and 3 cabins; nice and grassy with very clean amenities and plenty of room to stretch out with easy access.
After unhitching we ducked back into town for lunch and some groceries to discover that the entire main street is being re-done. Council workers everywhere with barriers and bare dirt road… The town itself was looking a bit post-apocalyptic with not too much life (probably not surprising post lock-down; Thanks again Gladys). Lots of closed shops for a Monday but still seeing signs of life. More about the town in coming days.
We stopped in at the bakery and had a pie, curry for Jo and pepper steak for me. The pies were those beautiful square pies with the golden yellow pastry that’s crisp on the bottom, flaky on top and a rich meaty filling that you only get in country bakeries. A short stop at the local IGA, which was quite large and very comprehensive, then back to the van for a quiet afternoon, wine and dinner.
Our second day in Grenfell started late after a very good and long night’s sleep. The van’s bed is better than our bed at home and it’s hard to get out of in the morning.
Forcing ourselves up, a quick brekkie and we shanks’d it to the other side of town to find a small coffee van that we noticed when we first arrived.
The coffee van guy was a really nice young bloke (named Axel) who fitted out his van himself and had been having a crack for a couple of months… Beautiful coffee and just nice to sit in front and listen to the chat going on. There was a retired air force guy talking to some locals (and the coffee van guy)… and then two Ambo’s turned up for their morning coffee. All the seats were taken so, necessity being the mother of invention, they whipped out the ‘all singing / all dancing’ electric ambulance stretcher/bed and used it as bench seat. Country ingenuity at its best.
After coffee we hoofed it again up the hill past the hospital to look at a sculpture garden, which was well worth the walk. Down an overgrown driveway and into a tree-filled paddock full of rusty, weathered metal sculptures that were welded from old machine parts and bric-a-brac. A lot were on sale and the prices actually seemed quite realistic, from $300 up to $22,000 for the massive eagle and nest…
As we were leaving the sculpture garden a car pulled into the driveway and politely advised us that it was closed despite there being no signs or indication… Only in the country…
We decided that Day 2 was a Pub night. There’s four pubs in Grenfell. We booked in at The Criterion, which was having schnitty night ($12) and we both chose the ‘Mexican’. The cheesy garlic bread was ‘da bomb, the Reschs on tap was cold and the Yellowtail Pinot Grigio was just what Jo wanted.
Now, the concept of the ‘Mexican Schnitty’ is really quite ridiculous to begin with, no matter where you are… It’s just wrong. The Cri’s mexican schnitty is a chicken schnitty topped with salsa, sour cream and avacado. When accompanied by steamed veg and chips’n’gray, it was bloody awesome! About as mexican as a Norwegian bob-sledder… but bloody awesome just the same. So good we were both in bed by 9:00 o’clock after walking home…
Day 3 and hard to get out of bed again… so comfortable. Lay in, avocado on toast, followed by 1½ km walk to the coffee van. Had a good chat with the coffee van guy and dissected his business plan. He knows his job, he remembered what we’d ordered the previous and produced the same result today… Wish him nothing but success!
After another good coffee we hoofed it up the hill to the hospital again and had a good look around the historic O’briens Hill Gold Mine. It’s a really nice area with some goldfields machinery and a couple of the original mine shafts still able to be viewed. The main shaft was very deep and gives a glimpse of how hard life would have been back in the day.
From there we legged it back to the other side of town to look at the silo art. Very impressive and representative of the agricultural sector that is the backbone of Grenfell these days. There’s a nice little viewing area that explains how the mural was done with some partly finished photos as well.
Beside the silos is the historic railway station, which also operates as a museum (but not at this time). Beautiful little building, which also has a free-camping site adjacent as well as the town’s dump point (of interest to anyone with a caravan).
Quick walk back to the van and another lazy afternoon… We decided that tonight was also pub night and tried out The Royal this time. The Royal is a bit earthier than The Criterion. A number of locals were propped up at the bar and there was a lot of “fuk’n this” and “fuk’n that”. At one point the young lady behind the bar asked them to tone the language down (hopefully not on our part)… It was good, however, to hear the ‘real story’ regarding the Alec Baldwin shooting instead of the rubbish being reported by the media…
Jo had salt&pepper squid and I had the sausages with veg, chips & gravy. This was a genuine pub meal with no bells and whistles… Gravy so thick and rich you could set a post in it. Stick to your ribs food at a damn good price. Worth every cent and all washed down with more Resch’s on tap and a Sauv Blanc for Joanne.
Enjoying Grenfell immensely…
Managed to get out bed at at reasonable time today although Sleeping Beauty stayed in for a while longer…
After a quick B&E roll we jumped in the Cruiser and drove out to Ben Hall’s Cave, 30 minutes from Grenfell in the Weddin Ranges. Nice drive along some skinny country road in parts and dirt for the last couple of kilometres.
Ben Hall’s Cave has a campground area and would be accessible in our van. It was well kept and quite pleasant looking but the mozzies there were shockers… You’d being slapping on repellent every 30 minutes, which would get tiresome.
The walk up to Ben Hall’s Cave is a moderate five to ten minute walk along a laid out track that isn’t too taxing. Upon reaching the cave you can see why a variety of bush rangers used it as a hide-out. Easy to defend and a commanding view of the valley below as well as being high and dry in bad weather. The cave is quite large but also very shallow at the back so it would not have been a comfortable spot but certainly dry and defendable.
A short distance from Ben Hall’s Cave is Seaton’s Farm, which is a preserved ‘Depression Era’ farm owned by the… Seaton’s. To say they did it hard is a massive understatement… Everything hand-built or hand-dug including the dam. Seaton scavenged everything he could; from second hand fencing wire to corrugated iron. The house, sheds and chook pen are all made from a patchwork of corrugated iron sheets that he actually hammered flat in order to make each piece just that bit larger.
No electricity and the only concession to technology was the acquisition of a kerosene refrigerator at some point. Every single day must have been a back-breaking slog for these people. Even going into town (to sell eggs, wool, etc.) must have been an epic in itself… I guess we’re stronger than we think if put to the test but pretty sure I’m to soft to live that sort of life.
After Ben Hall’s Cave and Seaton’s Farm it was back into town to enjoy another coffee, and home made lemonade, at the Coffee Van with our Coffee Guy. The lemonade was a real wake-up call just on that really sharp side of sweet with an eye-squinting tang… I tested him with a long black today and he was up to the task. Nice and mellow with just a hint of bitterness.
Coffee Van Guy told us that Grenfell actually has one of, if not the, highest vax rates in NSW (therefore Australia). We found that to be quite surprising but good on ’em… The pubs we’ve been to are quite serious with their COVID rules and checking, which is really quite reassuring. I was expecting a bit of country laxness and that’s not the case so far… I do love going into a country pub though and watching the looks on the locals faces as they size you up on the ‘universal outta town wanker scale’…
We also learnt from Coffee Van Guy (Axel) that his dad used to tour in a backup band with INXS and Cold Chisel after I remarked on the name of his van (Headley Grange) and the music posters he had in it. He’s only 19 and told us that Kirk Pengilly used to babysit him. Amazing the people you meet and their ‘degrees of separation’.
Lunch back at the van and then a quick trip in to see some local art at the Information Center. It was a nice display by two female artists in a variety of mediums: ink, paint, felting and paper. Pictures and sculptural pieces. Nothing grabbed us greatly but it was a good diversion and we had a nice chat with the Information Desk person about the Main Street upgrades and how Grenfell is faring. Not too badly by her account but everyone is sick of the Main Street upgrade.
Decided that tonight is Pub Night again. The Railway does not have a bistro at this time so we’re going to try The Albion tonight; the last of the four pubs in town…
The Albion is under new management and was very quiet when we arrived except for half a dozen codgers propping up the bar. We were given two tickets in the chook raffle after ordering a Resch’s and a Sauv’ Blanc… Missed out on the chook by 1.
Despite being very quiet we stayed for a meal. A beef schnitzel for me and chicken schnitzel for Jo. Despite initially thinking we would have been better off going elsewhere we were pleasantly surprised when the meals arrived. My beef schnitty was brilliant and and Jo thoroughly enjoyed her chicken schnitty commenting that the salad was better than the other pubs… So al-in-all three good honest pub meals in Grenfell plus great coffee at the coffee van.
Our last day rolled around and we had all but decided the night before that we were going to stay an extra day (because we can). We walked over to the Coffee Van for our morning walk and chat with Axel.
Yet another really good coffee and discussion but we said our goodbyes because he has his day off on Saturdays and we wouldn’t be seeing the next day when we left.
Stopped in at the bakery for to grab an afternoon snack for later that day. Neither of us were up for anymore sightseeing so we just went back to van and had a quiet day in.
We ended up spending most of the day rivetted to the TV watching Gladys Berejiklian being slowly dissected at ICAC. What a masterful display of ‘interviewing’ by Scott Robertson as he slowly, methodically and respectfully showed the former NSW premier for the person she is as opposed to the person she wanted the state to believe she was. Better than ‘The Squid Game’…
Overall Verdict
Grenfell, despite appearing to be tired and run down, turned out to be a great spot to get away for our first trip since the delta lockdown. No crowds, good pubs, a number of good things to see and do and mostly good weather.
It’s a town with interesting history and iconic Australian country architecture that’s well worth the visit.