As we sort of expected…Supreme called up to let us know that our van was finished and ready to pick up a bit earlier than expected. We set our date for Tuesday, 11th February 2020. This meant a a quick trip down to Melbourne for hand-over on the Tuesday morning followed by towing back to Holbrook (half-way) in the afternoon, an overnight test sleep and then tow back home on the Wednesday.
The hand-over itself was quite comprehensive and also involved the fitting of a Weight Distribution
Hitch (WDH) to help take the load of the back axle of the Landcruiser. This isn’t mandatory but I’m convinced that this piece of extra kit helps keeps the van straighter and more level under tow.
The folks at Supreme were very happy and helpful, took their time and made us feel very comfortable before we took off on that first tow out of Melbourne.
We also bought a 12V TV and some leveling ramps at the dealership in anticipation of upcoming trips.
There was only one snag at hand-over, which was that the Annex company didn’t turn up the previous day to measure up and install the tracks for our annex. No big deal though, Supreme organised for them to do the measuring and tracking at our place when we return home.
I became an archery tragic when I turned 48. My only regret is that I didn’t start shooting arrows when I was a child. I love every little aspect of the noble art of toxophily (the fancy word for archery) and do everything I can to increase my knowledge and skill.
My passion is for field archery, which involves walking around bushland, paddocks, etc. shooting various size target faces at various distances. My chosen division is ‘Barebow Recurve’, which allows for space age materials but strips the bow itself back to nothing but the riser (‘handle’), the limbs and a string. No stabilisers, no sights, no dampening devices. The only simpler version of archery is the wooden longbow, which I also shoot ocasionally.
Archery is as much a discipline as it is a sport. Like most sports, it is not as simple as it looks, requiring endless learning, concentration, breath control, hand/eye coordination, some level of strength and a great deal of patience…
I’ve come a long way since I first picked up a beginner’s bow to the point where I am a competent and competitive barebow archer, I build my own arrows, make my own strings and help others to find their way into this historic and iconic sport.
Over the years I have managed to shoot a number of ‘All Perfect’ targets. ‘All Perfects’ are where all of your arrows in a scoring ‘end’ are shot into the centre-most scoring circle of the target (which most people would recognise as a ‘bullseye’):
In field archery an All Perfect is all three arrows in the 6 ring.
In target archery an All Perfect is all six arrows in the X/10 ring.
So… after three perfect days in Anchorage and Talkeetna the time came to board the transfer coach that would take us to the cruise ship port at Whittier for our Alaskan Inside Passage cruise.
Coach Trip
Despite being on the coast and having the world’s largest floatplane base, Anchorage does not have a deep water port. As such, cruise ships dock at a small town called Whittier, which is 100km south-east of Anchorage following the Seward Highway.
To get there we booked a transfer coach that provided a scenic tour including a lunch stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. The route took us out of Anchorage and down the Seward Highway following the coastline of the Turnagain Arm. The drive was scenic, picturesque (as is everything in Alaska) and included a brief stop at Beluga Point to stretch legs and take photos.
The Alaskan Inside Passage cruise was one of the highly anticipated events of the Team Alaska trip and anticipation was building after brilliant start to the trip in Anchorage. It was sad to close the first leg of the trip leaving Anchorage but Team Alaska had already proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that this was going to be a monumentally good adventure.
Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center
The Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center is about 20km north-west of Whittier and gave us the opportunity to view the charismatic Alaskan wildlife up close an personal. The Center is similar to an open zoo divided into specific animal corrals as well as having barn like buildings to house injured wildlife that are recuperating from being hit by cars, illness, accidents, etc.
We were fortunate to see, first hand:
Elk
Caribou
Muskox
Moose
Wood Bison; and
even a Bald Eagle.
The bears were a no show though, much to TeenyPeeny’s delight. It was quite interesting to see a not-for-profit facility caring for and preserving native Alaskan wildlife and, in particular, bringing the Wood Bison back from edge of extinction. We spent around an hour at the center wandering amongst the enclosures and having lunch before reboarding the coach for the last leg to Whittier and embarking on our Alaskan Inside Passage Cruise…
Whittier
Whittier is a curious little port town that is dominated by two large buildings. One building is where all the residents of the town, around 200, once lived in apartments all under the same roof. The town was built during World War 2 as a military facility and port with the two tower being put up in the 50’s. The modern port services private moorings, cruise ships and the railway line running adjacent to the port at the head of the Passage Canal. part of Prince William Sound.
There isn’t really much else to Whittier so upon arrival at the dock we collected our luggage and proceeded to board our cruise ship and settle in for the Alaskan Inside Passage cruise to Vancouver.
Spending a few days at the start of the Team Alaska trip in Anchorage afforded the chance to take a day trip out to Talkeetna. Don once again leapt to the fore and organised a hire car and performed the duties of chauffeur and tour guide.
Talkeetna is an Alaskan picture postcard frontier town about 180km from Anchorage by road. Pop culture has it that Talkeetna is the town that the 90’s tv show Northern Exposure modelled the show’s tv town ‘Cicely’ on. This may or may not be totally true and the show was definitely not filmed there (it was filmed in Canada). Regardless of the facts it is a very pretty little town full of atmosphere and Alaskan weather.
We wandered around Talkeetna looking into the various stores, enjoying the town atmosphere and even strolling in the drizzle that seemed to be perfectly appropriate given the frontier feel of the town. We also discovered a small photo gallery specialising in Aurora Borealis photography; the photographer using Talkeetna as a base for their quest. For lunch, we chowed down at the Denali BrewPub on burgers, fries, beers, etc.
Eagle River Nature Center
On the way to Talkeetna we drove past the Eagle River Nature Center, which is a State Park wildlife/wilderness area. This was our first opportunity to take a hike and experience the beauty of Alaska’s wild environment. We discovered, in Anchorage, that TeenyPeeny was not a fan of small planes and we also discovered here that he had a deep seated fear of being mauled to death by a bear. This is not normally a problem in Australia but bubbled pretty quickly to the surface when we were reading the noticed boards and noted that there had been recent bear activity in the immediate area.
Not daunted…the team bravely headed off on one of the loop walks for a spot of Alaskan nature. Needless to say, we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of mountains, streams, muskeg, forest and waterfalls. We were hoping to see moose, elk or caribou, even bear (in the distance, except for TeenyPeeny) but alas, the wildlife didn’t show for us on this occasion; not even a beaver.
The scenery more than made up for it though. There was a hollow tree that easily swallowed four of us, except TeenyPeeny who was on constant bear watch. We walked along part of the original Iditarod Trail, immortalised by the Iditarod Sled Dog Race. The group returned to the carpark and learned that a bear had indeed passed through the carpark only moments earlier according to some other visitors but again Team Alaska did not bear witness to said bear. Needless to say, TeenyPeeny was keen to get back in the car and get going again…
So… TeenyPeeny, Cankles, Pretzel and AndRob flew out of Sydney on the 14th May, 2016 and, after a few hours stopover in Honolulu, finally landed in Anchorage, Alaska on Sunday, 15th May at 5:00am in the morning. Despite arriving at 5:00am there was a courtesy phone for our hotel, the Lakefront Anchorage Hotel, and we were picked up by a hotel minibus and at the hotel by 6:00am. What’s more… our rooms were ready and we were able to check-in straight-away.
Our first impressions were that the hotel was perfection, a dark timbered lobby and hallways with various stuffed animals including bears, elk, musk ox, etc. The hotel itself is situated on the waterfront of Lake Spenard with magnificent lake views from the bar, dining area and outdoor courtyard. A breathtaking way to start our trip.
Pachos and Don were arriving a little later from Washington D.C. so the four of us had previously planned to shake off any jetlag by walking down to Gwennie’s Old Alaska Restaurant for a good ol’ American breakfast. It didn’t disappoint with plenty of pancakes, drip filter coffee, bacon, eggs, maple syrup, biscuits, sausage gravy and grits. By the time we returned to the hotel Pachos and Don had arrived and Team Alaska was formed.
Lake Spenard
Anchorage is located on the coastline but also has a number of lakes nearby. The Lakefront Anchorage Hotel is located on the shore of Lake Spenard, which has been joined with Lake Hood to create the world’s largest floatplane base. The hotel patio area fronts the lake and a float plane operator docks there every evening offering sightseeing flights after giving a talk and inspection of his floatplane. Our group, minus TeenyPeeny, booked a flight the following day and the pilot generously offered us a five minute city loop flight right then and there as a taster.
Taking off and landing in the float plane was smooth as silk and both flights were an excellent way to get a first feel for the beauty of Anchorage and the vastness of Alaska. TeenyPeeny, who is not fond of light aircraft, elected to stay at the hotel and have his first experience with U.S. style bar service and tipping etiquette.
We took a walk around part of the lake shore near the hotel, inspecting numerous private floatplanes tied up at the many little moorings. Alaskans go on a waiting list for years to get a floatplane mooring on Lake Spenard and have to prove that they own a floatplane to prevent speculators from corrupting the market. It seems that floatplane ownership is nearly as prevalent as car ownership in this part of Alaska.
Sightseeing Anchorage
Over the years Pachos has visited a great many of the Hard Rock Cafes around the world so it was inevitable that Team Alaska would end up in Hard Rock Anchorage (it has unfortunately closed since our trip). It was a great place to cheers the start of our odyssey and start to explore Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage is an attractive mix of city, country and frontier all rolled into one. It has modern buildings as well as the stereotypical Alaskan weatherboard clad timber buildings. The town centre atmosphere was relaxed, inviting and tourist friendly. Don being a keen cyclist organised a group bike hire, which proved to be an excellent way of seeing a variety of Anchorage locations at our own pace and our own discretion. The bike tour had a rough start when Pretzel accidentally cut-off Pachos when crossing onto a path causing Pachos to take a tumble. But trooper that she is Pachos re-mounted her bike and continued without further incident.
It turned out to be quite a tour taking in a part of the Anchorage coastline with magnificent views to Mount Denali. Another little surprise in the higher part of town was a frisbee golf course that boasted some of the most picturesque views you could possibly imagine. We watched a couple trying desperately to launch their discs in the strong winds but not having much success. The natural beauty of the frisbee golf course more than made up for it though.