Category Archives: Shakedown Trip – Lake Mungo

Shakedown Trip Stats

So… we kept records of our trip details mainly out of interest but also to help us get an idea of the costs and effort that will be involved in our Grand Tour trip later this year.

Shakedown Trip Towing Log

Details of each towing segment of our Shakedown Trip to Mungo National Park.
DateDriverFromToLeaveArriveElapsedStart OdoEnd OdoDistanceBreak AtBreak FromBreak ToDuration
2021-03-07RobRoyallaJugiong11:5714:3602:3924,86925,028159Yass Service Center13:2013:5600:36
2021-03-08RobJugiongNarrandera09:2512:2002:5525,02825,243215
2021-03-11RobNarranderaHay09:3011:2501:5525,33325,501168
2021-03-14JoHayBalaranald09:2311:2001:5725,53325,664131
2021-03-17RobBalranaldLake Mungo09:2512:4003:1525,66925,818149Mungo Visitor Center12:0512:3500:30
2021-03-20RobLake MungoMildura10:1012:0001:5025,89226,005113
2021-03-27RobMilduraRobinvale09:5011:3501:4526,21026,29787
2021-03-30RobRobinvaleLake Boga09:4512:4503:0026,31826,469151Andrew Peace Wines09:4511:0601:21
2021-04-01RobLake BogaRochester09:4512:3002:4526,50626,669163
2021-04-05RobRochesterCorowa09:1612:5003:3426,74326,944201
2021-04-08RobCorowaCraigieburn08:2711:4603:1926,98727,255268
2021-04-09RobCraigieburnTarrawingee14:1016:4002:3027,29627,519223
2021-04-10RobTarrawingeeRoyalla08:3514:4006:0527,51927,969450Gundagai11:3512:2000:45
Total distance travelled3,100 km
Total distance towed2,478 km
Average towing distance191
Towing distance - Rob2,347 km
Towing distance - Jo131 km
Total towing duration34 hours 17 minutes
Average towing duration2 hour 38 minutes

Shakedown Trip Fuel Log

Details of the fuel stops we made on our Shakedown Trip to Mungo National Park.
DateTimePlaceBrandOdoPrice/LActual/LDiscountQuantityCostDistanceKms/LL/100Km
2021-03-07Home24,869
2021-03-1012:50NarranderaCaltex (Tasco)25,3331.3391.33985.14114.004645.4518.35
2021-03-1313:50HayCaltex (Tasco)25,5261.3591.35941.9457.001934.6021.73
2021-03-1614:30BalranaldCaltex (Tasco)25,6651.3591.3593953.001393.5628.06
2021-03-2614:35MilduraApco26.2011.1291.12985.9297.005366.2416.03
2021-03-3114:30Lake BogaMetro26.5051.2971.29761.6880.003044.9320.29
2021-04-0715:31CorowaCaltex (Woolworths)26,9841.3391.3790.0489.92124.004795.3318.77
2021-04-0909:50CraigieburnCaltex27,2751.3491.4090.0658.9179.472914.9420.24
2021-04-1011:35GundagaiMobil27,7771.3791.37989.93124.015025.5817.91
2021-04-1109:47CalwellCaltex27,9841.3391.3990.0646.4762.232074.4522.45
Average Price per Litre (discounted)1.321
Average Price per Litre (actual)1.339
Total kms (start to last refuel)3,115km
Total Fuel Cost790.71
Cost per km$0.25
Average Distance per Refuel346 km
Average kms / L5.01 km
Average L / 100kms20.43 L

Shakedown Trip Camping Sites

A list of all the caravan parks and camping sites that we stayed at on our Shakedown trip.
FromToNightsPlaceStateCostPer NightStay
2021-03-072021-03-081JugiongNSWDonation10.00Jugiong Campground
2021-03-082021-03-113NarranderaNSW99.0033.00Narrandera Caravan Park
2021-03-112021-03-143HayNSW87.0029.00Hay Caravan Park
2021-03-142021-03-173BalranaldNSW90.0030.00Balranald Caravan Park
2021-03-172021-03-203Lake MungoNSW73.8024.60Mungo Main Campground
2021-03-202021-03-277MilduraVic280.0040.00Mildura Riverside Holiday Park
2021-03-272021-03-303RobinvaleVic102.0034.00Robinvale Riverside Caravan Park
2021-03-302021-04-012Swan HillVic74.0037.00Lake Boga Caravan Park
2021-04-012021-04-054RochesterVic116.0029.00Rochester Riverside Caravan Park
2021-04-052021-04-083RutherglenVic136.8245.61Rivergum Holiday Park
2021-04-082021-04-091CraigieburnVic121.26121.26Airport Tourist Village
2021-04-092021-04-101TarrawingeeVicFreeFreeThe Plough Inn
Total nights33
Total Accommodation Cost$1189.88
Average Cost per Night$36.12

Day 34 – Tarrawingee

So… our final night has finally arrived. After leaving the Supreme Service Center in Craigieburn (Melbourne) we decided that we would break up the long drive home from Melbourne by having an overnight stay at one of the pubs that offer free overnight camping in exchange for buying a meal at the pub. These pubs can be found on a free subscription website called Country Pub Camping.

Originally we were planning to stay at The Riverina Hotel in Holbrook (where we had stayed once before) but since we thought we wouldn’t get away from Supreme until 3:00pm we decided on staying at The Plough Inn in Tarrawingee.

Plough Inn Van Site
Plough Inn Van Site
The Plough Inn
Massive Olive Tree
The Plough Inn
Quirky art sculpture

Tarrawingee

Tarrawingee is a small town (village) of less than 500 people not too far from Wangaratta and Benalla. It was ideal for our purposes because it broke up the drive home to Royalla and wasn’t too far off the highway.

The Plough Inn

The Plough Inn

The Plough Inn is a lovely country style pub that has a large parking area out front and a very large paddock out the back. Out the back is a small stable and a large beer garden area that adjoins the paddock area where caravans and campers are permitted to stay as long they are self contained.

Plough Inn Van Site

We were allotted a space beside a tall tree in a beautiful grassy area that was relatively flat and quite level. In front of us was a massive olive tree that was bursting with fruit that were also littering the ground around it.

Massive Olive Tree

The olive tree looked about seven metres high with a very thick trunk at the base. I didn’t ask but I hoped that they picked the olives and brined them because they looked plump and juicy.

Inside the pub was the typical front bar where the locals were gathered for a Friday afternoon drink. The great thing about The Plough Inn was that they had a good range of local craft beers on tap. The had an XPA from Beechworth Bridge Road Brewery that we had visited a couple of years ago on a prior trip to Melbourne. The standout beer though was a Weiss beer from the Two Pot Brewing Co. in Yackandandah. It was a crisp, dry beer that was perfect for a warm afternoon after the drive.

The pub bistro was good honest pub food and chock-a-block with a Friday night crowd creating lots of atmosphere. They did muck up my order but that was OK because the food was good, the beer was cold and it was a nice way to spend our last night on the road before returning home

The Drive Home

Since we didn’t have to hitch up the next morning we had a nice bacon and egg breakfast in the van to use up the last of our eggs and get us ready for the last long drive home from Tarrawingee to Royalla.

The drive itself was fairly uneventful as it is pretty much dual lane freeway all the way to Yass and then a simple drive back into Canberra, down the Tuggeranong Parkway and out through Calwell to Royalla.

The only interesting event of the drive occured when when stopped in at the Service Center near The Dog On The Tuckerbox for lunch. We decided to have KFC and Jo was lined up waiting for our order. Rob went to a coffee kiosk close by and sat down at a table. Not long after sitting down two men approached the coffee kiosk and started speaking loudly to the lady serving there. The conversation became louder and then one of the men shouted at the lady calling her a profane name.

The man then picked up a sauce bottle dispenser and shaped up to throw it at the woman. At this point Rob and two other men at two nearby tables jumped up to approach the man who then threw the sauce bottle at the women (failing to hit her).

Rob confronted the man and ordered him to leave the premises immediately and with the assistance of the other two men effectively cornered the sauce thrower giving him no option but to back down and briskly walk towards the exit. One of the other men, at the request of the coffee lady, followed the sauce thrower and took down his number plate and checked that the coffee lady was OK.

With the incident finished Rob and the other men re-took their seats and everything pretty much went back to normal as though nothing had happened. Center staff then proceeded to talk to the coffee lady and make sure that everything was under control. Quite a bizarre incident to finish our trip.

Trip over… we’re now very much looking forward to our Grand Tour – Big Trip later this year when we head off around Australia proper…

Day 33 – Craigieburn

So… an overnight detour down to Craigieburn, northern industrial area of Melbourne, where the Supreme Caravan Factory, Dealership and Service Center are located.

Original Table Leg
Nuovo-Mapa Table Leg
Locker Strut (fixed)
Locker Strut (Before)
Hose Leak (Before Fix)
Hose Leak Repair
Hose Leak Repair
Silicon Seal – Van Front
Working water levels
New Van Radio
Supreme Service Center
Supreme Service Center

Warranty Repairs

I don’t think that any caravan in history has come off the production line and not suffered some issues. Our van is not different and prior to this trip (as well as during) we had a number of warranty issues pop up. Given that a couple of the fixes could only be done by Supreme and the fact that we were in Victoria for the second half of the trip we organised to drop into the Supreme Dealership and Service Center to get our issues sorted.

We were booked into the Supreme Service Center at 3:00pm on Thursday, 8th April. So a three and a half hour drive from Corowa down to Craigieburn. We were met by our Supreme Service technician Daniel, who was a really nice young bloke who carefully went through all of the warranty items on our list and assured us that they would be complete by 3:00pm the next day. We handed over the van keys and headed off to the nights accommodation.

The following day we were called at 1:00pm and told that the van was ready, two hours ahead of schedule. Happy days! Daniel once again took us through all of the repairs and made sure that we were totally satisfied with the work that was done. He also answered a number of questions we had regarding other aspects of the van.

We are incredibly happy that we chose a Supreme caravan and cannot fault their service and support post sale. If these are the worst problems we have then we are lucky van owners…

Interior Water Leak
Silicon Seal – Van Front

When we first picked up our van in February 2019, we discovered after a heavy rainfall that water was leaking into the front right-hand cupboard. We subsequently discovered that there were a couple of holes in the silicon seal on that side of the van. This was fixed at the van’s first service by our local service center (Capital Caravan Service Center). That fixed the initial leak but we later discovered when towing through some heavy rain that water was still getting in. Our local service guy, and Supreme, said that it was likely getting under the horizontal joins in the panels at the front of the van. Silicon was run along horizontal joins and hopefully that is the end of the internal water leaks.

Table Leg
Original Table Leg

When we originally picked up the van we noticed that the table leg was square unlike the display van we had viewed, which was round. We discovered that this was a different leg to the one originally specified on the plan and was probably an automatic upgrade.

Unfortunately… the square leg only allowed the table top to move up/down, left/right and backwards/forwards. It did not allow the table top to swivel. This made it awkward getting in and out of the seating.

Nuovo-Mapa Table Leg

Given that our floor plan originally specified a Nuovo-Mapa (brand) table leg, Supreme gladly swapped it over and now the table top swivels as well. The original leg looked a bit more stylish but being able to swivel the table top makes the sitting area so much easier to use and comfortable to sit in.

Overhead Locker Strut
Locker Strut (Before)

On one of our weekends away one of the struts in the overhead lockers above the table had come loose and the plastic edge strip deformed. Rob had tried unsuccessfully to repair it previously but the deformed plastic strip kept pulling the screw out when pressure was applied.

Locker Strut (fixed)

Supreme replaced the plastic strip and strengthened the point where the screw held the strut in place. Looking new again after the repair.

Water Level Indicator
Working water levels

After a couple of weekends away we noticed that the water level indicators for the two fresh water tanks were not working. It was originally thought that the sensors needed adjusting. Supreme discovered that the battery in the indicator was flat and that there was a short circuit in the indicator. This was fixed, battery replaced and the indicator is now working perfectly.

Radio Blue Tooth Connection
New Van Radio

The van is fitted with a radio/DVD player that can also connect to our phones via Bluetooth to play music, make phone calls etc. The radio itself was working fine but the Bluetooth connection was failing.

Supreme noted that there was a known fault with this brand and installed a new replacement unit, which is now connecting without any problems.

Water Hose Line Leak
Hose Leak (Before Fix)

As noted in our post about Corowa… The day before we headed down to Supreme, serendipitously, we discovered water leaking down one of the tires. It turned out that the water line had come loose from its anchor point above the tire and had been blasted by road debris coming off the tire to the point that it was punctured and water was constantly dripping out of it. The timing for this to occur could not have been better.

Hose Leak Repair

Supreme cut out the punctured hose and replaced it with new hose, including a filter, and reattached it to the underfloor. The hose is still exposed above the tire but we will monitor it during our next few trips and if it looks like it is still being damaged then we may have a piece of checker plate installed over it.

Airport Tourist Village

Whilst the van was being repaired, we stayed overnight at the Airport Tourist Village in Attwood. No photos… but we can say that it is good value for money if you’re going to Melbourne Airport or the Craigieburn area.

It consists mostly of various relocatable style cabins (that you find in caravan parks), however we stayed in a brick apartment that had a king bed in a separate bedroom, large living area with large television, good-size kitchenette and bathroom (shower was a little squeezy though). The apartment was very clean and the air-conditioning was good.

For $121/night we can thoroughly recommend this as a good place to stay for a reasonable price in Melbourne if you’re happy to be on the northern outskirts. It is also walking distance from a cluster of cafes and supermarket.

The only downside was the people in the neighbouring apartment were quite loud and carried on until around 3:30am. Jo slept through it all but Rob had a very restless night’s sleep. Not the Village’s fault though.

This was the penultimate night of our ShakedownTrip so after picking up our van, which Supreme had given a complimentary wash, including glossing the tires as well, we felt as though we were driving away with our new van again. Very happy customers.

Off to The Plough Inn in Tarrawingee for the last night of our ShakedownTrip before heading home.

Day 30-32 – Corowa (Rutherglen District)

So… after our Easter layover in Rochester we towed on to Corowa, which is on the NSW side of the Murray but only about 10km from the Rutherglen wine district in Victoria.

About 30km from Corowa we passed through Yarrawonga, on the Victorian side, over a long bridge spanning the Yarrawonga Weir, that creates Lake Mulwala, to the town of Mulwala on the NSW side. Lake Mulwala is a man-made lake on the Murray River.

Neither of us had heard of these places and were a bit gob-smacked as we approached the bridge. It was quite reminiscent of Pambula/Merimbula or Forster/Tuncurry except that it was a freshwater lake but had the same sort of seaside township feel to it. We made a mental note to come back and explore it at another time (not school holidays).

Wahgunyah Bridge over the Murray
Leaking Van Pipe
Timber Jinker
Timber Jinker
Sleeping Beauty
Corowa Federation Museum
Murray River at Corowa
Wine on the Terrace
Lake Moodemere Dining Terrace
Lake Moodemere Estate Terrace
Lake Moodemere Tasting Room
Decisions, decisions…
Wagyu – Lake Moodemere Estate
Duck Breast – Lake Moodemere Estate
Cosmo – Lake Moodemere Estate
Lake Moodemere
Lake Moodemere
Corowa Whisky Tasting
Bathroom Wisdom
Corowa Whisky Tasting
Corowa Whisky Distilling
Corowa Whisky Cafe Ceiling
Corowa Whisky Ceiling
Corowa Van Site
Corowa Van Site
Park in Corowa
Corowa Bin Chicken

Corowa

Park in Corowa

Corowa, despite being a NSW border town, still has that Victorian river town feel to it… perhaps due to the statue of AFL players outside the Football ground by the river. Corowa is renowned as the ‘birthplace of Federation’ due to a number of important conferences held there in the years leading up to Federation. The story of Federation is told at the Corowa Federation Museum, which is a mixture of the story of Federation and historical/vintage artifacts, machinery, devices and appliances.

Murray River at Corowa

It’s another quaint border town with lots of federation era architecture and public areas. The Murray River passes by it with two bridge crossings and quite a few river front camping and picnic areas as well as boat ramps for fishing and skiing.

Rivergum Holiday Park

Corowa Van Site

Rivergum Holiday Park is located on the northern edge of Corowa and backs onto a reserve area by the Murray River. It is a large caravan/cabin park with spacious van sites, lots of cabins and quite a lot of permanent van sites that appear to be private getaways for fishing and skiing.

The park had emptied out from Easter when we arrived and we were allocated to a nice large grassy site with a concrete slab; an easy reverse beside the slab but we did have to break out the levelling ramp for the first time just to get the van sitting flat (so water drains properly and the bed is flat).

Corowa Van Site

The amenities at this park were very clean (as they had also been at every other park on this trip) and nice and close to our site, which is good for people like us with ‘pensioner bladders’. The only downside to this park was the constant bombardment by mozzies… The reserve behind the park had a couple of billabongs that were very probably mosquito breeding grounds. It meant that we didn’t spend much time outside under the awning but that’s OK because the temperatures were in the 30’s so it was nice to laze about in the van’s air conditioning for a change.

Corowa Whisky & Chocolate

Corowa Whisky Distilling

One of the main attractions in Corowa is the Corowa Whisky & Chocolate factory that has been established in the old Corowa Flour Mill. It is a magnificent building and the refurbishment is sympathetic to the past with a rustic contemporary feel and lots of wood.

We had a look around the chocolate shop, which we learned is affiliated to the Junee Chocolate Factory that we visited a few months earlier on a weekend away.

Corowa Whisky Tasting

After the chocolate shop Rob tasted six of the Corowa whisky’s made on site. They were all distinctive in their own way with one being quite peaty and reminiscent of peaty Scotch Whiskey’s Rob had tried in Northern Scotland many years ago. The tasting room was quite something with mood lighting, barrels for tables, high shelves of the product and a skylight around thirty feet high in the tallest part of the building.

Corowa Whisky Ceiling

After tasting we had lunch in the cafe, which also boasted some magnificent ceilings with with exposed beams and light fixtures made from old barrels. It was a nice place to spend the morning, taste some whisky and relax with some good food in great surroundings.

Corowa Federation Museum

Corowa Federation Museum

Corowa is known as the ‘birthplace of Federation’. The Corowa Federation Museum is an interesting place that tells the story od Federation and Corowa’s place in the important conferences held there in the lead-up to Federation and formation of the colonies into Australia. One of the first things Rob noticed in the museum was a copy of Peter Fitzsimon’s “Fromelles & Pozieres“. We often listen to Peter Fitzsimons books on audible when we’re travelling (currently listening to “Breaker Morant“) so this was a little coincidental.

Timber Jinker

The museum contains a large collection of vintage, war and pre-war items as well as the story of Federation. From washing machines and vacuum cleaners, shearing equipment, medical devices to drays and timber jinkers. IT is a somewhat eclectic collection and anyone of our vintage will see a number of familiar items that were commonplace in our parents and grandparents houses as we grew up. One standout for me was a “Flytox” pump style fly sprayer that my Grandmother would carpet bomb us as soon as a blowie entered the kitchen.

The museum is a little bit tired and could use some updating but is well worth visiting when in Corowa. It’s only $5 which supports the museum going forward.

Lake Moodemere Estate

There are a gazillion wineries in the Rutherford region and we were a bit ‘wined and whiskyed’ out so we only chose to visit one, which was Lake Moodemere Estate. This turned out to be a great choice.

Wine on the Terrace

Lake Moodemere Estate is a family owned winery (for seven generations) that is a working farm and vineyard. They’re wines are all made from their own grapes (no imports) and cover a good range of reds and whites.

We booked previously for lunch and so turned up a little earlier to do a tasting. After a few whites, a Rosé, and a ‘Shiraz & Cinsaut’, the owner/winemaker picked us in one and  remarked, “I think you’re after something with more body? People our age are generally looking for something with a bit more depth. Am I right?” He was right. Their Estate Shiraz was very good. Special mentions also go to their Sparkling Shiraz, which was very nice. The standout for us though, believe it or not, was the Rosé. So much so that we bought a few to take home.

Lake Moodemere Dining Terrace

Lunch was essentially ‘fine dining in a casual and relaxed outdoor setting’ on a terrace behind the homestead building overlooking Lake Moodemere.

We opted to have a three course lunch with matched estate wines ($95/head). Each course was served with a 100ml pour of an Estate wine chosen especially to pair with the meal chosen.  For entrée Rob chose the cured salmon (paired with a chardonnay) and Jo chose the kangaroo tail (paired with the Rosé). In hindsight I think we both enjoyed the entrées the most.

Wagyu – Lake Moodemere Estate
Duck Breast – Lake Moodemere Estate

For main Rob chose the Wagyu (paired with the Estate Shiraz) and Jo the Duck Breast (paired with Shiraz & Cinsaut). Both were superb and we were surprised how well the Shiraz cut through the fattiness of the Wagyu. Dessert for Rob was the Mille Feuille with an outstanding, but not too sweet Tara Muscat, and for Jo was a chocolate tart paired with the Grand Muscat… both superb).

Cosmo – Lake Moodemere Estate

Whilst the meal was fine dining, the atmosphere was most casual with Cosmo, the border collie, and Bailey, a Labrador cross, and the cutest (name unknown) Labrador puppy wandering from table to table trying to out cute each other for a sneaky chip, which they were not supposed to be allowed.

Lake Moodemere

Prior to entering the Estate we took a short drive down to Lake Moodemere itself and drove along the foreshore. We were surprised to find a Rowing Club in the middle of nowhere, which would have looked completely out of place had it not been for the lake itself.

Minor Van Damage

After we returned from Lake Moodemere Rob had to attend to the more mundane duty of emptying the toilet cassette. Since the park’s dump point was out of action he had to drive into the Corowa public dump point near the football oval.

Leaking Van Pipe

Upon returning and replacing the cassette back into the van he noticed a trickle of water running down one of the van tires. Closer inspection revealed that the water line above the tire had been punctured and abraded, which probably occurred on the drive to Lake Mungo or on a long stretch of graded roadworks leaving Lake Boga.

Now if there was ever a perfect time for this to occur it was now because the following day we were driving down to the Supreme Dealership at Craigieburn to have some minor warranty repairs done. We couldn’t have time this one better.

Day 26-29 – Rochester

So…We were originally going to stay in Echuca for Easter but couldn’t get a booking anywhere. Rochester is a small town 25km south of Echuca on the Campaspe River so booked in there for four nights…

Rochester Van Site
Water Towers through a tree
Rochester Water Towers
‘Stolen Apples’ playing on Easter Saturday.
Rochester Shamrock Hotel Parmi’s
Rochester Silo Art
Rochester Shire Hall
Rochester Shamrock Hotel
The ‘Red’ Railway Bridge at Rochester
The ‘Red’ Railway Bridge at Rochester
Andrew Peace – The Unexpected – Shiraz
Old Tatura Police Cells
Living Sculpture
Jo in a burnt out tree stump
Iddles Lane Mural
Rochester World Dominoes Championship
Camper Trailer Recovery
Campaspe River Walk
Campaspe River
Campaspe River Reflection
Bridge Through Trees

Rochester Riverside Holiday Park

Rochester Van Site

Rochester Riverside Holiday Park is where we laid up for Easter. It is a relatively large park but the sites were a little squeezy for a large van with the awning out and car parked beside. The amenities were very clean and new and there was also a large new camp kitchen in the centre.

Overall it was a very well run caravan park with friendly staff and managers. The only problem was that, with the park being quite full, a lot of sites wanted to have a fire-pit… Everyone loves a fire in the evening but the there was hardly a breath of wind over the four days so the smoke from the fires just hung in the still air. By 7:00pm your eyes started stinging from the smoke and stayed that way until going to bed.

‘Stolen Apples’ playing on Easter Saturday.

One unexpectedly good  thing about the stay was that the park put on some live music on the Easter Saturday night. A duo called ‘Stolen Apples‘, from Melbourne played a range of covers from 7:00pm ’til 10:00pm. They were surprisingly good, keeping true to the original songs but injecting just enough of their own sound to make them refreshingly different.

The duo were both ’20 somethings’ and it never ceases to amaze me that most cover groups, despite their age, only ever do songs from the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s… You (or at least I) never seem to hear covers from the 90’s or after…

Rochester

Rochester Shire Hall

Rochester is small rural town with a quiet atmosphere and quaint main street. Lots of historic looking building (mostly the pubs) are evident but perhaps the most striking feature is the silo art near the railway tracks and the water towers reaching into the sky.

Iddles Lane Mural

Rochester is typical of many Victorian country towns. The standout feature is the silo art in the center of town and also the Ron Iddles mural in Iddles lane. Ron Iddles is a Victorian an has been dubbed Australia’s greatest detective with a 99% success rate.

River Walk

Campaspe River Reflection

Like most river towns there is a river walk along the banks of the Campaspe River. The Campaspe is a small river with no discernible current that is a bit browner than the Murray and the Murrumbidgee but still quite attractive in its own right,

The ‘Red’ Railway Bridge at Rochester

The river itself is about seven metres below the top of the banks, which are quite steep. There are lots of the ubiquitous river gums along the banks, some young, some old, some dead and decaying. The walk takes you, in one direction, down to the ‘Red’ Railway bridge, which is built on red brick pylons and quite distinctively Australian looking in it’s design.

Camper Trailer Recovery

Heading back in the opposite direction we happened to be in the right place at the right time to witness the recovery/salvaging of a shiny (new looking) camper trailer that appeared to have plunged seven metre from the top of the river bank into the river itself. A medium size tractor was struggling mightily to lift and drag the trailer away from the bank and back to the top. Upon spying us watching from the other side, the tractor operator shouted out to us, “It’s tough up here in the Kimberly…”. We shared the laugh and stayed around until he finally dragged it up to the top of the bank gushing water out all the way. Once at the top he pulled out one of the side drawers, inspected the content and shouted out, “Dry ‘za bone…”. Another good laugh…

Shamrock Hotel

Rochester Shamrock Hotel Parmi’s

We stuck to our tradition of having a pub/club meal on the last night of our stay. Rochester has a few pubs and we ended up having a couple of parmi’s at the Shamrock Hotel.

The Shamrock Hotel is a grand old pub standing proudly in the centre of town. We started with a couple of drinks in the main bar where the locals were propping up the bar t the end of the day. We both had chicken parmi’s,,, Jo had a McPaddy’s (bacon, onion rings, cheese, etc…) and I had a Bass Strait (bacon, prawns, cheese, etc…). Good honest pub fare at reasonable prices and the servings were huge. Both of us were defeated having to leave what probably would be a normal size meal on the plate after we finished.

Onwards to the Rutherglen district and Corowa (NSW) in particular…

The Big Beer
Beer Sign Wisdom
Great Aussie Beer Shed
C.U.B. Beer Wagon
Flag Ale Cans
Cold Gold KB – cans
Beer Shed Cans
Vintage Petrol Pumps
Horse Drawn Delivery Carts
Vintage Ploughs
Vintage Car Lineup
Vintage Car Lineup
Worlds Rarest Beer Can
Model T Ford Truck
Mini Minor
Horse Drawn Bakery Cart
Furphy Water Carts
Dabb & Co. Coach
Covered Wagon
Beer Shed Stuff
The Big Beer

Since Echuca  was so close we thought about spending a day there but decided that we would probably come back there at some point so elected not to. We did however find ‘The Great Aussie Beer Shed‘ just outside of Echuca.

The Great Aussie Beer Shed is a museum collection, owned and run by Neil a retired Victorian police officer (whose dad was also a Victorian police officer). Neil has amassed a huge collection of ‘stuff’ (mostly beer themed) over 45 years.

Beer Shed Cans

It is an amazingly well presented collection of stuff and is rated as the best beer museum in the country. So much so that when Carlton United Breweries decommissioned their magnificent horse drawn beer wagon they chose the The Great Aussie Beer Shed as it’s resting place.

C.U.B. Beer Wagon

The museum has beers cans, steins, bottle, paraphernalia, war memorabilia, old cars, agricultural machinery, petrol pumps, biscuit tins, poker machines all on display. The thing about it is that it is not ‘kitschy’… it is well categorised, well presented and Neil gives a ten minute verbal tour, which is funny, entertaining and also sombre as he talks about his war memorabilia. It is a must see attraction when somewhere near Echuca.

Day 24-25 – Lake Boga

So… another easy tow from Robinvale southeast past the Andrew Peace Winery, at Piangil, through Swan Hill and on to Lake Boga.

Somewhere between Robinvale and Andrew Peace Winery a pair of feral cats decided to dash out of the scrub across the road in front of us. One made it across and the other left it too late and is no more. It’s never pleasant to run over over an animal but the death was instant and, being a feral cat, I’m not feeling any remorse about it…

Andrew Peace Winery Courtyard
Lake Boga Van Site
Andrew Peace Winery Dam
Lake Boga Setup
Lake Boga Parklands
Lake Boga Site View
Lake Boga Sunset
Lake Boga Sunset #1
Lake Boga Sunset #2
Lake Boga Sunset #3
Lake Boga Sunset #4
Lake Boga Moon Rise
Memorial Flying Boat Anchor
Flying Boat Museum
Catalina Tail View
Catalina Side View
Catalina Nose View
Swan Hill Big Cod
WW2 Bunker
WW2 Bunker Generator
WW2 Caterpillar Tractor
WW2 Jeep
WW2 Motorbike

Andrew Peace Winery

Andrew Peace Winery Dam

We bought two Andrew Peace ‘Masterpeace’ Pinot Grigios and one Shiraz on special back in Balranald. We were so impressed with them that we resolved to stop in at his winery, which is on the way from Robinvale to Swan Hill and Lake Boga. The winery has a cellar door and features a public BBQ area that also has some antique machinery beside it.

After the obligatory wine tasting we ended up purchasing a mixed dozen of our choosing, to be couriered home, plus two whites and two reds for the van. Whilst walking back to car we had a hurried discussion and decided to go back in and order a second dozen to be couriered home as well. Each dozen cost $100 and included a complimentary Moscato.

The ‘Masterpeace’ label is an easy drinking range of whites and reds that aren’t overly complex but are perfectly suited to lazy afternoons/evenings with or without food. Andrew Peace is our new favourite wine maker.

Lake Boga

Lake Boga Parklands

After Andrew Peace Winery we headed on through Swan Hill for another 14km to Lake Boga, which during World War 2 became an inland flying boat base for the maintenance and repair of amphibious aircraft like the Catalina.

The town itself is a small ‘strip’ style town that is surrounded by agricultural holdings like most towns along the Murray corridor. The lake is the central feature of the town and is a mecca for fishing, skiing and sailing. It is relatively shallow and is also a water storage for the area. The level rises and falls with use and is kept topped up by pumping water in from the Murray river.

Lake Boga Caravan Park

Lake Boga Setup

The Lake Boga Caravan Park is perfectly located along the shore of the lake and yet another perfect place to pull up, set up on the water’s edge and soak in the view. especially with a ‘Masterpeace’ Semillon Sauvignon Blanc. The atmosphere in the park is very relaxed and the amenities are fairly new looking and spotless.

Lake Boga Sunset #4

Not too many campers were in while we there but I expect that it will be bursting over the Easter long weekend. The weather was perfect for our two night stay with warm days, cool nights and perfect sunsets and moon rises.

Lake Boga Moon Rise

At dusk the fish start rising with some jumping fully out of the water. The lake has four species of fish, being Murray Cod, Yellow Belly, Red Fin and, unfortunately, Carp. If you can’t relax here then you’re beyond help or already dead.

Flying Boat Museum

Catalina Nose View

The Lake Boga Flying Boat Museum is on the shores of Lake Boga and where the original No. 1 Flying Boat Repair & Service Depot was located during World War 2. The museum is housed in a large metal shed and also has the original communications bunker on the site underground. Entry to the museum is $15/adult and is well worth the price of admission, which includes a 23 minute video that is very professionally done in a small room with vintage theatre seats that were salvaged from a theatre some years ago.

WW2 Jeep

The centrepiece of the museum is a complete PBY5 Catalina Flying Boat (above) that stands proud amongst the other exhibits of machinery, models, clothes and memorabilia. The Catalina is quite majestic in the way that pelicans look cumbersome on the ground but absolutely magnificent in the air and on water. Other exhibits include a jeep, caterpillar tractor, various restored engines; including a Rolls Royce V12 Merlin engine (the type used in Spitfires).

WW2 Bunker

The communications bunker is equally interesting giving a glimpse into the life of the officers and staff that manned the radios sending and receiving secret information day and night. The exhibits include all manner of period equipment including a small telephone exchange switchboard (similar to the ones the Rob’s Mum operated in her younger days).

Swan Hill

Swan Hill Big Cod

Swan Hill is only 14km from Lake Boga and is a relatively large town with a long shopping strip shopping centre near the river and railway lines. We dropped in for lunch just to have a poke around and take a break from relaxing by Lake Boga.

Swan Hill has a ‘big Murray Cod’ in one of the parks, which despite being a bit kitschy is actually well built and decorated although it looks a bit lonely with nothing else other than a carpark around it… There is also re-creation pioneer settlement attraction by the river but we weren’t feeling particularly touristy that day so we passed it by in favour of returning to Lake Boga for an afternoon of ‘doing nothing’ by the lake.

Back at Lake Boga the afternoon’s camping excitement consisted of a young lady who was camped near us with a jet ski losing her keys to jet ski. Presumably she dropped them in the water but even though they were on a floating lanyard they were nowhere to be found. She handled it well but must have been very disappointed with her lovely little SeaDoo sitting in the water and no way to start it.

A leisurely pack up the next morning and off the Rochester…

Day 21-23 – Robinvale

So…just a short trip, less than one hundred kilometres, from Mildura to Robinvale. Really enjoyed a simple tow on the bitumen after the trip to and from Lake Mungo on the corrugations and dirt. We waved to Trentham Estate as we went past; such a beautiful spot.

Robinvale Van Site
Robinvale Van Setup
Our View In Robinvale
Campaspe River Reflection
Euston Royal Hotel Bistro
Murray Twilight
Twilight Moon Robinvale
Swimming in the Murray
Cappuccino Art in Robinvale
Fresh Pigs Heads
Moon-Glow-in-Robinvale
Bum Bang Island
River Gum in Robinvale
Pumping Shed – Robinvale
The Cut – Robinvale
Robinvale Vineyard Lane
Table Grapes in Robinvale
Robinvale Public Seat
Robinvale Water Tank Bridge
Robinvale Windmill
Robinvale Murray Twilight
Murray Moon River
Murray Twilight
Murray Twilight

Robinvale

Caix Square Robinvale

What an absolute little gem is Robinvale. Coming in from the NSW side of the Murray, you turn left after you come off the bridge to enter Robinvale Riverside Caravan Park. Robinvale is one of the smaller border-towns (on the Vic. side) and is paired with Euston, 4km away, on the NSW side.

Table Grapes in Robinvale

It’s another agricultural  irrigation town surrounded by vineyards, which appear to be growing table grapes. The Murray river flows along the northern edge of the town and is a magnificent stretch of river, about 100m wide with a very gentle current that becomes mirror-like at night in the still Autumn air.

Robinvale Riverside Caravan Park

Robinvale Van Site

We both agreed that this is the best stay of the trip so far. When we arrived they could not find our booking but fortunately there were plenty of spare powered sites on the river’s edge and we think we ended up snaffling one of the better sites towards one end that had a number of empty sites either side allowing us to stretch out in comfort,

Our View In Robinvale

The view from our site was glorious and uninterrupted with a set of steps behind the van down into the river. It was a perfect spot to relax and completely de-stress. We both agreed that we could have spent more time here and have locked that thought away for a future time when we come back.

Swimming in the Murray

The weather was perfect, around 26°C each day with clear blue skies and cooler nights. The Murray was just too inviting and I took a swim both days. The water was cool and took a few minutes to acclimatise to but once submerged was refreshing and revitalising. Swimming in a beautiful river beats swimming in any pool any time.

Robinvale Murray Twilight

The Murray put a show on for us each night with the full moon rising over the river painting it in hues of mauve and purple instead of the green/brown during the day. Then as darkness sets in it becomes a silvery set of silhouettes and shadows as the moon reflects in the mirror-like water.

Moon-Glow-in-Robinvale

Wild ducks populate the banks and the ever-present corellas perform their raucous opera for free. Photos, unfortunately, do not do full justice to the scenery when you’re standing directly before it.

Riverside Walk

Robinvale Vineyard Lane

As with most of the river towns, Robinvale has a river walk that starts outside the caravan park and follows the river bank. We followed the bank for a few kilometres, past a string of moored houseboats to the edge of town. From there we opted to turn back towards the town down a country lane that had a small vineyard with massive bunches of table grapes that looked ready for picking and were very tempting; but we resisted out of respect for the owners.

Robinvale Public Seat

Once back in town we followed the grassy strips back into the main street passing some natty little public tables and seats that were private little booths. You could imagine a pair of spies from a Frederick Forsythe novel hunched over in them swapping secret information with each other.

Town Centre

Cappuccino Art in Robinvale

There’s a few quirky shops in town. We stopped in at the Op Shop so Jo could grab a few more books (two for $2, so we paid $5 and still felt guilty). Then over to the bakery for a coffee and half an apple pie each. The pie was quite tangy and obviously baked on premises and the coffee was well above average. The staff were a mixture of Muslim and Islander folk. There appears to be a large Islander (Tongan) community around Robinvale, which we think provides the labour force for fruit picking. On the Sunday morning the Islanders were out on force at the local churches, most of them dressed in their ceremonial dress.

Fresh Pigs Heads

We made a couple of trips to the local Ritchies IGA supermarket. The big supermarkets are absent from these smaller towns and this is where IGA shows the way… The Robinvale IGA had everything you could want and then some. It was also very evident that they catered well to the local community as evidenced by the half pig’s heads ($7.95) and lamb flaps (a cheaper fatty cut of meat) in the meat section. I believe that the Islander community is very fond of these parts of the animal (and why not if you slow braise them).

Euston for Dinner

We’ve had an informal policy of having a club/pub meal on the evening before we leave for the next town. This allows us to pack up the van and not have any cooking mess to deal with before we leave the next day.

At the caravan park we met another couple (Kevin & Lucy) who were Supreme owners like us (and have owned five Supreme’s over the years. They have attended a number of Supreme Musters (gatherings of Supreme caravan owners) and also organise other events. Kevin & Lucy were a lovely pair and also a wealth of information to us, with tips and tricks for our ongoing travels.They also suggested we try the Euston Pub Royal Hotel/Terrace 31 bistro for dinner.

It was a new’ish little pub full of locals having a beer and a yarn after work. The Terrace 31 bistro was a bit quiet (read empty) when we got there but had a few diners by the time we left. The bistro was all brick and had a number of four-seat booths, enclosed by walls on three sides. Very comfortable and very private.

Euston Royal Hotel Bistro

It was usual pub fare. Jo had Salt’n’Pepper Calamari, which was generous, tender and served with a very fresh salad. I had a beef schnitzel with gravy, chips and vege’s. This was good, honest pub food… well cooked and reasonably priced. The beer was cold and Jo’s Pinot Grigio was quite a nice drop.

After dinner we had a quick drive around the town noticing that the Euston Club also operates a ‘self contained’ (no power/water) caravan park behind the club on the banks of the river as well as their being a Euston caravan park. Another nice little town making a living from agriculture along the Murray.

Preparing to Leave

Sad to say that upon returning to our van after dinner, there was an ambulance at one of the vans across from ours with a camper down on the ground being attended to. It looked like it may have been a heart attack. Everything looked under control and nobody appeared overly distressed so we tried not to be nosy and kept our distance. We noted that, sadly, this is probably not too uncommon a sight with many of the caravan park campers being grey nomads a few years older than us. Just one more reason to get out and do our travelling while we’re still relatively young and healthy.

Murray Twilight

(It later turned out that the gent had not suffered a heart attack but had walked into the annex strut of his camper van, smacking his head causing him to fall down and fracture his hip. Still not good but probably better than a heart attack…)

On a positive note… the Murray put on yet another magnificent evening display on our last night. Very hard to move on from a place like this that calms your mind, soothes your soul and nourishes your spirit…

Day 14-20 Mildura

So.. back to civilisation after three wonderful days in Mungo National Park. The road from Mungo Main Campsite to Mildura was very similar to the road from Balranald; red dirt, corrugations, lumpy white hard-top and finally some bitumen. I would say that the road to Mildura was a bit rougher than from Balranald but the Cruiser and the Van handled everything perfectly. This time we put some padding between the sliding doors and their tracks so that they didn’t bounce out and that pretty much did the trick.

Thermal Cooker (Chicken Paprikash)

Before we left home Aldi were having one of their caravan and camping specials weeks. We picked up one of their thermal cookers, similar to the ‘Ecopot‘ but much cheaper. The thermal cooker is basically a big thermos that acts like a Crock Pot slow cooker by sealing in heat after having cooked the food to boiling point on a the stove.

Chicken Paprikash

We christened the thermal cooker with ‘Chicken Paprikash’ based on the simple but incredibly flavourful Hungarian dish introduced to us by close friends. The results were excellent and we’re looking forward to other slow braise recipes in the future. You can also make yoghurt in it, which we will try at some point in time.

Mildura

Mildura Town Centre

It’s probably around twenty years since we were last in Mildura and we really enjoyed it last time around. Our first impression on driving in is that it has grown a bit and changed a bit but also that it seemed a bit quieter.

We were a little sad that Hudak’s Bakery in the centre of town had disappeared; Hudak’s still have bakeries but the two storey café bakery is now a coffee shop under new owners. There were quite a few closed shops in the centre of town that may be casualties of COVID but also of the larger Midura Central shopping district.

Mildura Parks From P.B. Rothbury

The Murray River is still very impressive as you cross into Victoria (no sign of border-checking anywhere) and the park area and river walk, where the paddle boats dock, is absolutely beautiful. We’ve never seen so many grass tennis courts in one location as there are at the Mildura Lawn Tennis Club. There’s also a sizable brown snake  living in the bush near it. It slid across the path about three metres in front of us so quickly that I only saw it’s last half disappearing into the bushes.

We pulled up for seven nights in Mildura to have a decent break, set up the annex for the first time, and explore the area. Jo wanted very much to have a meal Stefano’s but it was booked solid for the week and although we were on the waiting  list we weren’t able to secure a table during our stay. Lots of other options though.

BIG4 NRMA Riverside Caravan Park

Mildura Van Site

This BIG4 NRMA Riverside Caravan Park is on the edge of town and backs onto the Murray. It’s a large’ish caravan park designed for family holidays, etc. with a bouncing pad, pool with slides, etc.

Murray River Selfie

We booked a powered ‘en-suite’ site for a bit of luxury, meaning we had our own private shower and toilet behind the van. The site itself was very ‘squeezy’ length-wise with our hitch only just off the driveway. We had to change sites because our first allocation was about two metres too short. Width-wise there was plenty of room giving us a chance to set up the full annex for the first time.

Our site was right next to the pool and bouncing pad so the first night was a bit noisy but being a Saturday most pulled out the next day so the place quieted down for the bulk of the week,

Mildura Van Site
Lock 11 & Weir Entrance
Mildura Riverside Walk
Mildura Town Centre
Mildura Weir
Chaffey Steam Pump
Bridge Over Lock 11
High Side of Mildura Weir
Midura Weir Close Up
Mildura Weir Low Side
Mildura Weir Works Area
Mildura Wharf Panorama
Mildura Wharf Riverside
Weeping Tree at Mildura Wharf
Mildura Worker’s Club Bar Map
Murray Behind the Caravan Park
Murray River behind Caravan Park
Murray River behind Caravan Park
Murray-Darling Junction
Murray-Darling Junction
Selfie et the Murray-Darling Junction
Murray River Bank
River Walk
Weeping Tree at Mildura Wharf

Our first day was spent relaxing, washing and doing a bit grocery shopping after running stocks down at Lake Mungo. On day 2 we ventured down to the river and followed the walk from the main wharf all the way down to Lock 11 (and the Mildura Wier) and Lock Island. It’s a beautiful walk with pop-up coffee shop cafes, things to see like the Chaffey Steam Pump, Riverboats, Parks, Tennis Courts, Lock 11 and the odd venomous snake (if you’re lucky).

Midura Brewery
Mildura Brewery

After a long walk it was a no-brainer to head into the town center and stop in at the Mildura Brewery for a cleansing ale… I can highly recommend the Mildura Brewery Honey Wheat, which is clean, bright and totally refreshing on a hot afternoon. Jo, not being a beer fan, opted for a Rekorderlig Strawberry/Lime Cider that was equally refreshing although a little on the sweet side.

Worker’s Club
Mildura Worker’s Club Bar Map

It’s always good to go out for a club meal when you’re in a country town (that’s big enough to have a club or clubs). The Mildura Worker’s Club is one of those straight-forward, meat-raffle, pokies and beer clubs. However, it has the distinction of having once had the longest bar in the world. Sad to say that the longest bar has since disappeared to accommodate pokies, bistro, sports lounge, etc… but the do have a pamphlet showing the layout of the old bar juxtaposed over the new bar and massive it was. There is a wall sized photo of it in the sports lounge so it still figures in the club atmosphere.

Mildura Worker’s Club Roast

The bistro was quite good with a mixture of contemporary meals and club favourites. Jo had a grilled chicken breast on a bed of beetroot risotto, which was a bit different and quite nice, whereas I had the good ol’ club lamb roast. Very generous and comforting.

We decided to run $20 through the pokies and ended up with $15 profit, which paid for one round of drinks, so that was a little bonus.

Paddle Boat Rothbury
Through Lock 11
River Bank from P.B. Rothbury
Lily pads
Cormorant on the Murray
After the cruise
Paddle Boat Rothbury

When in Mildura it is a must to take a cruise on a paddle boat. Unfortunately the steam paddle boat (Melbourne) was not operating but the Rothbury, a diesel powered  paddle boat, was filling in. We opted for a two hour morning cruise, down through Lock 11 and further down the Murray past beautiful river-front homes, camping grounds and banks lined with river gums.

Through Lock 11

Passing through Lock 11 it was most interesting to feel the entire paddle boat dropping (and later) rising as the lock emptied (and flooded) allowing the paddle boat to move down (or up) to the new river level. Quite amazing large scale engineering. The Rothbury itself was a lovely old girl, built from a hundred year old river barge. It is a soothing, quiet vessel with a rhythmic ‘wash – wash – wash’ sound as the paddles churn away and she rolls down the river.

Orange World Orchards
Orange World Orchard
Buddha’s Finger Oranges
New Mandarin Trees
Orange World Orchard

Orange World is one of those quirky Australian tourist attractions that is centered on a family-owned citrus orchard in Buronga, just over the river (NSW) from Mildura. At first sight it looks a little dated and tired but after having visited I rate as a must-see-must-do.

At the front of the orchards is a little shop that sells the usual knick-knacks and citrus related products. They operate a tractor-train ride through the orchard ($12.50), which is guided by ‘Mario’ an Italian born immigrant from Belgium. Mario is one of those people who makes you feel completely welcome and is able to educate you thoroughly on citrus growing whilst keeping you interested and chuckling all the time.

Buddha’s Finger Oranges

We were shown all the varieties of citrus (oranges, mandarins, lemons, cumquats, grapefruit) and also given the raw facts of citrus growing. They have ten thousand trees in their orchard and make 40c/kilo for oranges, whereas they make 90c/kg for mandarins. Consequently they are converting, via grafting, many of their orange trees into mandarin trees, because this is faster than planting new trees. Their ten thousand trees are picked over six months by only four pickers (two married couples from Greece and Spain) who earn about $30 per 400kg bin.

New Mandarin Trees

Having visited and thoroughly enjoyed Orange World we are now especially aware of the importance of buying Australian grown oranges, juices and citrus products. People like Mario love their orchards and work extremely hard to produce the highest quality fruit. We all need to keep these people in profit instead of buying imported produce.

Yabby Seat in Wentworth
Wentworth Log Sculpture
Murray-Darling Junction
Murray-Darling Junction

After Orange World we kept travelling west through Dareton to Wentworth. Both very quaint little inland towns. Not a lot in either town but charming in their own right.

Wentworth Log Sculpture

Wentworth is the junction of the Murray and Darling rivers and has a well kept riverside park with viewing tower that provides a high view of the river junctions. The park also has a carved log depicting river fish coming out of the log. Quite a nice sculptural piece.

Wentworth also has an historic gaol but we opted not to visit as we weren’t feeling terribly ‘custodial’ on the day. It is a pleasant little town with a few pubs to choose from.

On the way back to Mildura we were treated to a small dust storm as the winds and temperature picked up going through Merbein.

Trentham Estate Entrance
Trentham Estate River Path
Trentham Estate Terrace
Terrace at Trentham Estate
Trentham Estate Terrace
Trentham Estate Wharf
Trentham Estate Lawns
Waiting for Lunch
Trentham Estate Garden Terrace
Trentham Estate Garden Path
Trentham Estate Garden
Cheers at Trentham Estate
Pork Belly, Chips and Duck
Trentham Estate Dessert
Trentham Estate Terrace

Whilst we couldn’t get a table at Stefano’s, we were able to get a table for lunch at Trentham Estate, about 20 minutes way, on the NSW banks of the Murray River.

Trentham Estate grounds are beautifully kept with luscious lawns and gardens leading down to the river’s edge, where there is a long wharf area that houseboats can moor up on for a visit. The gardens are very well kept and laid out with tables on the lawn under the gums and on the terrace of the restaurant/tasting room.

Trentham Estate River Path

At one point an employee was dispatched to wrangle our scaly friend from the Lawn Tennis Club (or one of his relatives). No danger to guests though.

We did a thorough wine tasting going through most of the range of whites and reds. Jo (and I) was particularly impressed with the Pinot Gris (which was a bit of surprise to her) and I was most impressed by the Estate Shiraz (and not so much by the more expensive Reserve Shiraz). In any case, we came away with a half-dozen bottles on order ready for when we return home.

Trentham Estate Garden

Interestingly enough, the young lady who served us at the Worker’s Club the previous night was also our wine tasting host at Trentham Estate. What’s the odds?

Pork Belly, Chips and Duck

After wine tasting came lunch with a complimentary bottle of wine (having signed up to the Trentham Estate wine club). Jo had Peking Duck Breast and I went for the Pork Belly. Both were very rich, tender and beautifully presented. The pork was velvety soft with crispy crackling on a salad with fennel. The duck was fully-flavoured  with Hoisin sauce also on a bed of salad including mango. A beautiful meal in a beautiful setting on a magnificent river.

Life’s good!

Day 11-13 Mungo National Park

So… we set off from Balranald, a bit sad to leave such a comfortable camp site. Before we left though we stocked up on some meat from the Balranald Butcher, beers and cider, water, nibbles and wine. The bottle-shop was selling a local wine label ( ‘Masterpeace’) by a wine-maker named Andrew Peace located in Piangil, Victoria.

Balranald Butcher Porterhouse Steaks

Without jumping ahead too much, the Pinot Grigio ($15) was very pleasant and the 2019 Shiraz ($19) was most unexpected and thoroughly enjoyed with two of the best porterhouse steaks we have ever had (from the Balranald Butcher Shop) and the last of our home-grown vege’s cooked beautifully on the BabyQ.

Mungo Main Campsite
Mungo National Park.
Mungo Visitor Center Sign
Camel Melon
Ubiquitous Bluebush
Mungo Local In-Flight
Mungo Skies
Small Lizard at Walls of China
Lake Mungo Visitor Center and Station
The Road To Mungo National Park
Mungo National Park.

Heading west from Balranald you get a fair way on the bitumen until it runs out and then its a cautious but not overly difficult drive on the dirt to Mungo National Park. Its a mixture of smooth red dirt/clay, patches of corrugations and a hard-top white surface that is rougher than the red corrugated dirt.

The van towed beautifully, never once causing any concern with sway or drift as we shook our way to Mungo National Park. No damage occurred and the only real evidence of a rough ride was a dozen stones wedged in the grooves of the ‘Rock Tamers‘ (over-size mudflaps), some shifting in the cupboards and… both sliding doors inside the van had lifted off their tracks (no damage to doors or tracks though). The drive also shook all the loose saw-dust and metal filings out of the nooks and crannies from when the van was built.

The Cruiser handled everything magnificently and it’s fair to say that when towing on the smooth red clay/sand stretches it was actually smoother and easier than on the bitumen. The trick with the corrugations is to get up to the right speed to ‘skate/float’ across the ridge tops (usually between 70 and 80kph).

Mungo Main Campground
Mungo Main Campsite

We actually missed the campground turnoff and towed the extra 2km to the Visitor Center but there was ample parking for large vehicles. Once back at campground we were quickly set up and surprised to find large sites, usually with a table and bench seats, clean crushed rock and plenty of space.

In the centre of the campground was a set of immaculate long-drop toilets, stocked with toilet paper and a tank for hand-washing. The Visitor Center has flushing toilets and (free) hot showers, which we took advantage of on our last day.

Sunset Over the Dunes
Afternoon Sky
Lake Mungo Dunes
Lake Mungo Dunes
Pinnacle at the Walls of China
Walls of China Formation
Erosion Gully Formations
Erosion Gully Sunset
Heavy Skies and Erosion
Heavy Skies and Erosion
Heavy Skies and Erosion
Dunes Pre-sunset
Dunes Jaw Bone Fossil
Amazing Dunes Sunset
Amazing Dunes Sunset
We Were Here
Jaw Bone Fossil
Shadows Before Sunset
Red Sand Formations
Pre Sunset
Lake Mungo Sunset
Red Sand Formation
Red Sand Channels
Walls of China Vista
Walls of China Peak
Layering in the Walls of China
Walls of China outcrops
Lake bottom seen from the Walls of China
Erosion Gullies and Formations
Walls of China Formations
Amazing formations in the dunes
Walls of China dunes
The Walls of China
Walls of China
Walls of China Vista
Gullies in the dunes
The Sphynx
The Sphynx
Formation at Twilight
Mungo Sunset Vista
Ancient Tree Roots
Pinnacle Formation at Twilight
On Top of the Dune
Dune Crest Sunset
Sunset at the Walls of China
The Dunes at Sunset
Mungo Dunes at Sunset
Erosion Gully
Mungo Formation at Sunset
Mungo Outcrop at Sunset
Mungo Local In-Flight

After setting up at Mungo Main Campground we headed off to the Walls of China on the Mungo Loop Road. Unfortunately for us the Mungo Loop Road was mostly closed dues to heavy rain damage. The Visitor Center person at Balranald also suggested that the loop was closed to traffic due to a major archeological find (which was later confirmed by our Sunset Tour Guide).

Small Lizard at Walls of China

The Walls of China are about 10km from the Mungo Visitor Center on a white sand hard-top. When you reach them there is a boardwalk from the carpark to the dunes that mark the start of the Walls of China, which is the western side of the Mungo lake bed.

We Were Here

The Walls of China are a bit Mystical, somewhat Magical and absolutely Magnificent. Over a hundred thousand years of the lake filling and drying, filling and drying… filling and drying has produced layers and formations that are striking, unique and other-worldly.

Jaw Bone Fossil

It is an arid landscape that still supports abundant flora and fauna as well as archeological treasures that equal any other in the world. The remains of Mungo Man and Mungo Lady are dated over 42,000 years old from a time when the lake was 15m deep and supported abundant fish, shellfish  and land-based animals.

Mungo Sunset Tour
Lake Mungo Sunset

We can’t recommend the Mungo Sunset Tour enough. When booked through NSW National Parks you get an indigenous guide and are able to walk up into the dunes of the Walls of China. The indigenous guide explains indigenous culture and stories of the region as well as the archeology of Mungo Man and Mungo Lady. They also  explain how the indigenous groups look after their country by naturally regenerating native vegetation and  fish stocks.

Dune Crest Sunset

She explained, on this day, that the emus were migrating from the west over the Walls of China, which meant that ‘big rain’ was coming. Coincidentally… this is when the flooding started in the coastal areas after we left Mungo National Park.

Big Skies and Weather
Mungo Skies

Even though we were only here for three days we experienced heat, rain, cooling breezes, dust and all kinds of sky… The only thing we didn’t get was lightening, which we were told is spectacular.

Amazing formations in the dunes

Clouds would form and disappear, threaten and fade, and on one occasion let down a thirty minute shower that barely wet the ground before it dried up again.

Track to Zanci Station
Midway to Zanci Station looking back
Zanci Station walking track mid-way.
Cypress Pine
Zanci Station Sheep Pens
Zanci Station Fireplace
Zanci Station Derelict Structure
Zanci Station Derelict Machinery
Zanci Station – Raised Water Tank
Close-up view of the stables at Zanci Station
Stables at Zanci Station
Sheep Pen at Zanci Station
Looking out from Zanci shearing shed
Inside Zanci shearing shed
Approaching Zanci Shearing Shed
Zanci Station Root Cellar
Zanci Station Root Cellar
Zanci Station In-ground Water Tank
Zanci Station Fireplace
Zanci Station derelict structure
Track to Zanci Station

On the second day we did the 8km round trip walk to neighbouring Zanci Station, which starts at the Mungo Visitor Center. A derelict sheep station that has been preserved for historic value. The track is medium grade and takes you up onto the top of the Lake Mungo shoreline amongst Cypress Pines and and grazing flats.

Close-up view of the stables at Zanci Station

Upon reaching Zanci Station you can wander amongst the homestead ruins and the remarkably well-preserved shearing shed and stables. We had the entire walk to ourselves apart from one couple going the other way on our way back.

Zanci Station Root Cellar

The ruins show a harsh existence in an arid climate that was built on the blood, sweat and tears of people much hardier than ourselves. Life here would have been hard work and represented a lifestyle more than an occupation. We thoroughly recommend the trek to Zanci Station but take water stop to read the signs to get the most out of the experience.

Mungo Station Sheep Pens
Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Sheep Pens
Mungo Station Wool Presses
Platform Structure at Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Shearing Shed Steam Engine
Mungo Station Shearing Shed Stands
Mungo Station Shearing Shed Pens
Inside the Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Station Shearing Shed and Pens
Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Ground Tank (Dam) – Mungo Station
Mungo Station Shearing Shed and Pens

The Mungo Visitor Center is located on the site of what was formerly Mungo Station. The Mungo Station shearing shed and surrounds have been very well maintained and, like Zanci Station, provide a glimpse into the harsh but rewarding life of past times.

Mungo Station Shearing Shed Stands

The sheer immensity of the shearing shed and its hand hewn cypress pine timbers are amazing to see and you can easily imagine the rowdy, boisterous thrum of activity when the shearing shed was in full swing for a handful of weeks each year.

Mungo Shearing Shed Steam Engine

The timbers still seem as strong today as the were back in the day due to the hardiness and termite resistant properties of the cypress pine wood. As well as the shearing shed there is a partially restored in-ground water tank as well as the expansive sheep pens. Also on display are some of the old manual wool presses and the steam engine that powered the shearing hand pieces. The sheep are long gone from Mungo Station but you can still feel the atmosphere and imagine the atmosphere of the shearing shed in full action at shearing time.

Lake Mungo was a bucket list item for us and having finally got here in our van unscathed and in relative comfort was a major achievement. We recommend March as being a very good time of year to visit. It is hot enough to emphasise the arid climate without being uncomfortable with cooling afternoon breezes and big clear skies. We couldn’t planned a better Mungo experience (except maybe for the full loop track).

Day 8-10 – Balranald


Jo Driving the Hay Plain
A very very happy morning Jo
Volt meter and fridge
Resmed Air Mini CPAP machine
Solar blanket car plug-in
Solar Blanket on windscreen
Solar Blanket showing plug
Home Improvement
Jo posing on suspension bridge
Old Man Gum Tree
Jo on the river walk suspension Bridge
Caravan Park Structure
Baby Goat On River Walk
Hay Plain Panorama
Balranald Van Site
Balranald Van Site
Magnificent Murrumbidgee
Balranald Frog Sculpture
Hay Plain Emptiness
Hay Plain Emptiness

We left Hay after a slightly cooler night and headed off along the Hay Plain to Balranald. Jo took the wheel for the first time this trip. Plenty of trucks on the road and Jo managed to overtake a horse float on the way out of town.

Jo Driving the Hay Plain

The Hay Plain is a long flat expanse of big sky and emptiness, except for the agricultural holdings and the odd mob of emus. It’s hard to imagine what Burke & Wills and Charles Sturt must have thought when faced with all of this ‘barrenness’ in front of them.

Balranald

Balranald Frog Sculpture

Balranald is smaller again than Hay but looks prosperous enough even though we arrived on a Sunday and most of the shops were shut.

The town has scattered around it a number of sculptures depicting the Southern Bell Frog, which is an endangered species found along the Murrumbidgee Corridor.

Balranald Caravan Park

Balranald Van Site

Balranald Caravan Park is situated right on the banks of the Murrumbidgee as you come across the bridge (from Hay). It’s quite spacious and very well kept. We chose a grassed drive-through site with some of the thickest, lushest grass I have ever walked on. No levelling of the van was required and setup was quick and hassle-free. From the park it is an easy walk into town and passes a suspension bridge that re-crosses the river to a loop walk.

On the day we arrived we met Chris & Jill, owners of a Supreme Territory, who were keen to have a look at our Supreme Executive and gave us a heap of excellent tips and advice based on their experience.

A very very happy morning Jo

It was quite chilly when we woke up on he first morning but it was nice to snuggle under the doona for a change instead of lying on top of the sheets all night in the heat. Jo was in good spirits after a good night’s sleep.

River Walk

Jo posing on suspension bridge

As with Narrandera and Hay, Balranald also has a beautiful river walk along the banks of the Murrumbidgee. Balranald‘s river walk is characterised by starting with a suspension bridge located just outside the caravan park. Once across the bridge you can walk through the magnificent river gums and make your way back to the traffic bridge to re-cross the river and head back to the caravan park or keep going into town for a coffee.

The corellas assemble in the thousands near the caravan park and create an almighty racket that continues on throughout the day.

Home Improvements

Home Improvement

Since our next stop will be Mungo National Park we took the opportunity to try out an idea for a quick privacy sun shade on the awning. Instead of going to the bother of setting up one (or two) or the annex walls… we created some loops of cord inserted through thin plastic tubing that allows us to suspend a cheap plastic tarp from the annex in a similar but quicker way than the annex wall. All it needs is the home-made loops, a few tent pegs and a few bungy cords and ‘instant privacy/shade’. Very happy