Day 12-15 – Bright

Clock Tower – Bright
Ovens River – Bright
The weir at Bright
Above the weir at Bright
Bright township from nearby lookout
Paraglider landing in Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright

Despite only being a bit over 300kms from Castlemaine to Bright we managed to turn it into a fairly long day leaving at 9:30 and arriving in Bright a little after 3:00, with a few breaks along the way…

The most noteworthy part of the drive being near the Puckapunyal Army site when half a dozen kangaroos decided to split into two groups of three, of which one group decided to cross the road in front of us and an oncoming small sedan…

The sedan pulled up and off the road quickly and I was forced, for the first time, to apply the brakes fairly heavily. Instincts kicked in and I avoided the temptation of swerving to miss the roo but managed to slow the car and van relatively quickly and keep them both in a straight line and under control. I may have nudged one of the roos at the front of the car but everyone escaped with no injuries, loss of life or material damage… Ultimately I was quite impressed with the way that the van handled under braking…

Above the weir at Bright

Pulling into Bright I was reminded a little of Banff in Canada. A picture postcard perfect town full of autumn leave, ski accommodation, tourist’y shops and cafes along cozy streets and parks with lush green grass. And despite being a ski town it did not seem to have the pretentiousness of a Thredbo; more like Jindabyne, which is probably its NSW equivalent.

Fuel prices at Bright

The most amazing thing in Bright was the price of fuel. Despite everywhere else being $2.23+ for diesel, the petrol stations in Bright were selling at $1.97 and $1.98. Still cannot understand how or why Bright was selling so cheaply compared to everywhere else…

Bright is one of those pretty little places that is both relaxed and relaxing. You can poke around the streets or grab a coffee and watch the people go by without feeling a pressing need to anything if that suits your mood.

At one of the Op Shops Steve snaffled a dark rough glass bottle from the 1800’s (possibly for beer or rum) that would take pride of place amongst their travel treasures. Penny pounced on a slightly tattered, red cloth covered book from yester year titled, “How To Be A Good Wife” full of practical olden day advice for the young bride-to-be. She intended giving this a bridal tea present to her soon-to-be daughter-in-law…

Chinese Bridge at Wandiligong
Swing Bridge in Bright

On our first day in Bright we trooped off to the Buckland Valley Goldfields (see tab), followed the next day by a scenic road-trip to Mt Hotham, Omeo and Falls Creek (see tab). Our last day was spent with a short excursion out to the nearby village of Wandiligong, which is another pretty little village close to Bright on Morses Creek. We went for a loop walk starting in town that took by the Chinese Bridge and back via the Swing Bridge following Morses Creek. Wandiligong is one of the areas where European and Chinese gold miners got along better during the gold rush years. We read stories where Europeans had helped elderly sick Chinese with food and care, which was far better treatment than some of the other gold fields. The Chinese Bridge was built in honour of the Chinese workers of that era.

Wild Apple Tree at Wandiligong

Wandiligong is home to a massive apple orchard and there were wild apple trees everywhere we walked as well as oak trees laden with acorns and maple trees just starting to turn in colour. I picked an apple from one tree that looked a bit like a cross between a Granny-Smith and a Golden-Delicious… It was incredibly juicy and I suspect may well have been derived from a cider apple variety.

Paraglider landing in Bright

Coming back to Bright from Wandiligong we passed the paragliding/hang-gliding landing field and were treated to a landing before we noticed two dozen other paragliders circling around and playing follow-the-leader in search of thermals above the nearby mountains. The moon was out during the day and we occasionally had a view of one or two paragliders floating past it like some sort low flying medieval astronaut…

Everywhere you go around the Bright area is picturesque… It’s like a mini New Zealand or Tasmania. You could spend a lot of lazy days wandering and driving around the area without ever feeling rushed or stressed. However… I suspect that the vibe is a bit different during the ski season.

After Bright… Homeward bound via Gundagai for three nights…

Big4 Bright Holiday Park van site
Penny & Steve’s van at Bright
Drinks with Penny and Steve at our van
Penny discretely hiding her tacky tourist gift
Penny & Jo exchanging tacky tourist gifts
Rob seeking independent judging of the tacky tourist gifts
An evening at Bright Brewery
Drinks with Penny and Steve at our van

So… the main reason for us taking our short trip through Victoria was to catch up with Jo’s school friend Penny and her husband Steve while they were travelling around Victoria as well. We’d previously decided to meet up in Bright and stay at the Big4 Bright Holiday Park situated on the banks of the Ovens River.

Penny & Steve had recently acquired a lovely Swift caravan and were travelling around Victoria for all of March.

At the start of our trip Penny challenged us to see which couple could find the tackiest tourist gift for under $15… a challenge we gladly accepted. Upon meeting up in the Big4 Bright Holiday Park we had the customary drinks and proceeded to present each other with our gifts. Penny & Steve offloaded us with a particularly cringeworthy Melbourne Demons (AFL) football shaped wine cork remover. We were pleased to present them with a slightly offensive solar powered jiggling koala.

Penny & Jo exchanging tacky tourist gifts

Between us we couldn’t agree which of the two ‘gifts’ was the tackiest so we asked the van next door to adjudicate. They proclaimed the jiggling koala to be the tackier of the two but I think we all agree that they were both very tacky and worthy of the title…

It was a thoroughly enjoyable time spent with Penny & Steve at Bright and we spent each day touring around the Buckland Valley, Omeo and the surrounds of Bright.

Big4 Bright Holiday Park van site

The Big4 Bright Holiday Park itself is not a cheap stay but on the whole, given the location, amenities, and quality of the park it is well worth the stay. Most sites are slightly challenging to back into but one in they are perfectly level and fairly spacious with lots of shade from trees and privacy. We didn’t have a slab site but instead were provided with a large rubber ‘honeycomb’ style mat, which we thought was a fence until Penny & Steve pointed it out to us.

River walk at Bright

The park is a short walk into town along a picturesque river walk that tracks down to a public water park area including a slide into the river, a diving board, water dump bucket and various water play spots. The water is crystal clear and the temperature is very refreshing…

An evening at Bright Brewery

The path takes you past the Bright Brewery where we spent our last evening with Penny & Steve sampling their beers and cider and feasting upon pizza. Their beers were quite left field with a lot of Pale Ale’s (which I am NOT a fan of)… But I did try the following:

  • Bright Sour – More like a cross between a cider and a wine. Interesting but not spectacular.
  • Mole Stout – A stout beer based around a Mexican Mole (chocolate) sauce concept… Quite smooth and chocolate’y but not creamy like Guinness.
  • Alpine Lager – Too floral (like an IPA) for my taste and not crisp enough.

Jo had the Alpine Dry Cider and thought it was quite good.

Would love to go back to Bright one day and despite thoroughly enjoying the Big4 Bright Holiday Park, we thought we’d probably opt to stay in nearby Porepunkah or even Myrtleford next time.

Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Ovens River near Bright
Historic cemetery near Buckland Valley Goldfields
Bees and butterfly working a flowering gum
Hand dug Chinese gold mine at Buckland Valley Goldfields
Hand dug Chinese gold mine at Buckland Valley Goldfields
River crossing at Buckland Valley Goldfields
Small stony sand bar at Buckland Valley Goldfields
Pylons from the third ruined bridge at Buckland Valley Goldfields
Pylons of the third ruined bridge at Buckland Valley Goldfields
Buckland Valley Goldfields signage

Our first outing in Bright was in search of the Buckland Valley Goldfields, only a short drive from Bright, crossing over the Ovens and Buckland Rivers at various points. A truly scenic drive with a number of points of interest along the way including a few kilometres on dirt road into the Buckland Valley Goldfields themselves.

The catalyst for this trip was for our friend, Penny, to try and track down the location of the small settlement where some of her ancestors were once located.

Historic cemetery near Buckland Valley Goldfields

First stop was the historic Buckland Cemetery, which contained a number of graves from the mid 1800’s settlers and also the burial place of a number of Chinese miners that were the unfortunate subject of a massacre a racially motivated massacre there. Unfortunately Penny did not find any of here ancestors graves there but Rob did discover the grave of a ‘Maguire’, which may, or may not, have been a distant relation.

The cemetery itself was quite well kept and had a beautiful flowering gum in the centre that was in full flower with thousands of bees working away at the blossoms as well as one bright butterfly nudging its way in as well.

Hand dug Chinese gold mine at Buckland Valley Goldfields

After the cemetery we stopped at ‘Ah Youngs Camp’… a Chinese mining camp that is now a very tranquil and relaxing free camp area. There were still remnants of the massive hand dug Chinese open mine, now overgrown, as well as two side-by-side pits that were between 8m and 10m deep. Steve found a rock that had glistening flecks throughout and proclaimed that it was gold… Rob suggested that it was more likely to be iron pyrites or mica… Undaunted, Steve kept the rock to be assayed for gold at a later time or more likely to find it’s way into his rock collection.

Pylons of the third ruined bridge at Buckland Valley Goldfields

From the camp we followed the dirt road up to the Buckland Valley and the site of the small settlement that is no longer there but for a shallow river crossing and the ruined pylons of the third bridge that had been washed away. It was a magically serene place and at last Penny was able to discover that this was the settlement that held a school and a church denoting the place where her ancestors were. Much to her chagrin though, very close by the settlement was a place on the river called ‘Maguires Point’ so Rob thanked Penny very much for taking him on a family journey of discovery as much as her own.

Steve continued to fossick for that elusive gold nugget and ended up snaffling a nice piece of white quartz to add to his ‘gold bearing’ rock collection. Meanwhile we took the opportunity to put the drone up and get a bird’s eye view of the area.

In case you’re wondering what Steve was doing in the video… He was cracking open rocks trying to find a quick fortune in gold that had been missed in the gold rush years…

Before leaving we had a brief chat with a Queenslander who had been camping there for a few days. Interesting young bloke who regaled us of his trout fishing exploits as well as his method for cooking them in the ground in his camp fire.

Mt Hotham vista
Mt Hotham Ski Slope and Village
Water wheel and Court House at Omeo
Water wheel – Omeo
Water wheel support pillars – Omeo
Water wheel in Omeo
Parkland in Omeo
Art Deco – Golden Age Hotel – Omeo
Anglers Rest
Anglers Rest
Anglers Rest
From the verandah at The Blue Duck Inn – Anglers Rest
Blue Duck Inn near Falls Creek
Cold smoked trout at Blue Duck Inn – Anglers Rest
The track to Wallaces Hut
Wallaces Hut near Falls Creek
Rainbow gums at Wallaces Hut
Wallaces Hut near Falls Creek
Wallaces Hut near Falls Creek
Mountain stream on the way to Falls Creek
Mountain stream on the way to Falls Creek
Falls Creek Pondage
Falls Creek from a lookout
Dead trees in the Victorian Alps

On our second day in Bright Penny and Steve chauffeured us on a day trip to Mt Hotham and Omeo where Penny was once again on the trail to try and find the place where he grandmother was born in a tent back in the day…

Our first stop was at the Mt Hotham ski fields area to take in the autumnal alpine vista available from both sides of the road. It seemed that preparations were taking place for the upcoming ski season and we were surprised by the low visibility, due to fog and cloud on the trip up contrasting with the clear blue skies once we crested the pass at the top.

Art Deco – Golden Age Hotel – Omeo

Mt Hotham had a slight chill in the air but aside from the handful of resort workers was eerily empty like a post-apocolyptic zombie town, which was emphasized by the cloud rolling over the range and slowly spilling down into the ski slopes.

After a short break we continued onto Omeo… another picturesque alpine town dominated by the art-deco style ‘Golden Age Hotel’ at the centre, which started life as a small timber dwelling and was rebuilt twice after the second version burnt down resulting in the grand art-deco version that we witnessed.

Water wheel and Court House at Omeo

Just down from the Golden Age Hotel we stopped in at the Information Centre/Library/Bendigo Bank/Centrelink office where Penny did some more searching for her ancestral links to the area but unfortunately didn’t unearth anything. Following that we strolled down to the quaint Omeo Court House and the ruins of another decent sized water wheel used to drive a gold ore battery back in the day.

Water wheel support pillars – Omeo

So at this point we were going to turn tail and head home but changed our minds and decided to continue on the loop road via Anglers Rest and Falls Creek.

Anglers Rest

Anglers Rest sits on a bend in the road nestled in the mountain tops where a bridge crosses the Cobrunga River. Just near the bridge is the Blue Duck Inn, so named when a failed gold miner nailed his gold pan to the door and wrote ‘Blue Duck’ on it, which was miners slang for a failed gold lease… Inside the Blue Duck is rustic dining area filled with wooden decoy ducks, a fireplace and a beautiful wooden kayak suspended upside down from the ceiling.

Blue Duck Inn near Falls Creek

The menu was very enticing so we decided to stay for lunch and eat out on the verandah overlooking the grassy lawns heading down to the river. Penny and I opted for a cold-smoked trout (being in the mountains near a bubbling stream) whilst Jo and Steve went with the more contemporary salt’n’pepper squid.

Cold smoked trout at Blue Duck Inn – Anglers Rest

The trout (actually from nearby Harrietville) was superb as was the squid, washed down with beers and cider making for a rather satisfying and somewhat unexpected meal… for what seemed quite reasonable prices. Jo and Penny amused themselves by eavesdropping on the couple at the next table trying to guess the reason for their ‘rendezvous’ so far from anywhere given the difference in their age and ethnicity. A variety of interesting theories were put forward.

Wallaces Hut near Falls Creek
Wallaces Hut near Falls Creek

From Anglers Rest we continued our scenic drive through the mountains stopping to view Cody’s Hut and Wallace Hut after some slightly misleading information from the Omeo Information Centre. Wallace Hut apart from being an alpine shelter is the oldest hut and part of the Wallaces Hut Walk. It was the first ‘tourism hut’ built in the Victorian Alps. The hust is quite spartan on the inside but sleeps eight in bunks with a fireplace and small side-room with a wash basin. It would be a welcome respite for hikers walking in after a long day on the trail…

Mt Beauty Pondage

From there it was back out of the mountains via Falls Creek and Mt Beauty for quick stop and a cuppa tea near the Mount Beauty Pondage. Mt Beauty itself was originally built by the Victorian State Electricity Commission to service the Kiewa Hydroelectric Scheme and you pass over one of their dams, similar to Jindabyne dam, on the drive to Mt Beauty.

The whole drive from Bright through the alps and back to Bright was scenic from start to finish. It was an excellent day out and the food of future memories…