Day 21-23 – Robinvale

So…just a short trip, less than one hundred kilometres, from Mildura to Robinvale. Really enjoyed a simple tow on the bitumen after the trip to and from Lake Mungo on the corrugations and dirt. We waved to Trentham Estate as we went past; such a beautiful spot.

Robinvale Van Site
Robinvale Van Setup
Our View In Robinvale
Campaspe River Reflection
Euston Royal Hotel Bistro
Murray Twilight
Twilight Moon Robinvale
Swimming in the Murray
Cappuccino Art in Robinvale
Fresh Pigs Heads
Moon-Glow-in-Robinvale
Bum Bang Island
River Gum in Robinvale
Pumping Shed – Robinvale
The Cut – Robinvale
Robinvale Vineyard Lane
Table Grapes in Robinvale
Robinvale Public Seat
Robinvale Water Tank Bridge
Robinvale Windmill
Robinvale Murray Twilight
Murray Moon River
Murray Twilight
Murray Twilight

Robinvale

Caix Square Robinvale

What an absolute little gem is Robinvale. Coming in from the NSW side of the Murray, you turn left after you come off the bridge to enter Robinvale Riverside Caravan Park. Robinvale is one of the smaller border-towns (on the Vic. side) and is paired with Euston, 4km away, on the NSW side.

Table Grapes in Robinvale

It’s another agricultural  irrigation town surrounded by vineyards, which appear to be growing table grapes. The Murray river flows along the northern edge of the town and is a magnificent stretch of river, about 100m wide with a very gentle current that becomes mirror-like at night in the still Autumn air.

Robinvale Riverside Caravan Park

Robinvale Van Site

We both agreed that this is the best stay of the trip so far. When we arrived they could not find our booking but fortunately there were plenty of spare powered sites on the river’s edge and we think we ended up snaffling one of the better sites towards one end that had a number of empty sites either side allowing us to stretch out in comfort,

Our View In Robinvale

The view from our site was glorious and uninterrupted with a set of steps behind the van down into the river. It was a perfect spot to relax and completely de-stress. We both agreed that we could have spent more time here and have locked that thought away for a future time when we come back.

Swimming in the Murray

The weather was perfect, around 26°C each day with clear blue skies and cooler nights. The Murray was just too inviting and I took a swim both days. The water was cool and took a few minutes to acclimatise to but once submerged was refreshing and revitalising. Swimming in a beautiful river beats swimming in any pool any time.

Robinvale Murray Twilight

The Murray put a show on for us each night with the full moon rising over the river painting it in hues of mauve and purple instead of the green/brown during the day. Then as darkness sets in it becomes a silvery set of silhouettes and shadows as the moon reflects in the mirror-like water.

Moon-Glow-in-Robinvale

Wild ducks populate the banks and the ever-present corellas perform their raucous opera for free. Photos, unfortunately, do not do full justice to the scenery when you’re standing directly before it.

Riverside Walk

Robinvale Vineyard Lane

As with most of the river towns, Robinvale has a river walk that starts outside the caravan park and follows the river bank. We followed the bank for a few kilometres, past a string of moored houseboats to the edge of town. From there we opted to turn back towards the town down a country lane that had a small vineyard with massive bunches of table grapes that looked ready for picking and were very tempting; but we resisted out of respect for the owners.

Robinvale Public Seat

Once back in town we followed the grassy strips back into the main street passing some natty little public tables and seats that were private little booths. You could imagine a pair of spies from a Frederick Forsythe novel hunched over in them swapping secret information with each other.

Town Centre

Cappuccino Art in Robinvale

There’s a few quirky shops in town. We stopped in at the Op Shop so Jo could grab a few more books (two for $2, so we paid $5 and still felt guilty). Then over to the bakery for a coffee and half an apple pie each. The pie was quite tangy and obviously baked on premises and the coffee was well above average. The staff were a mixture of Muslim and Islander folk. There appears to be a large Islander (Tongan) community around Robinvale, which we think provides the labour force for fruit picking. On the Sunday morning the Islanders were out on force at the local churches, most of them dressed in their ceremonial dress.

Fresh Pigs Heads

We made a couple of trips to the local Ritchies IGA supermarket. The big supermarkets are absent from these smaller towns and this is where IGA shows the way… The Robinvale IGA had everything you could want and then some. It was also very evident that they catered well to the local community as evidenced by the half pig’s heads ($7.95) and lamb flaps (a cheaper fatty cut of meat) in the meat section. I believe that the Islander community is very fond of these parts of the animal (and why not if you slow braise them).

Euston for Dinner

We’ve had an informal policy of having a club/pub meal on the evening before we leave for the next town. This allows us to pack up the van and not have any cooking mess to deal with before we leave the next day.

At the caravan park we met another couple (Kevin & Lucy) who were Supreme owners like us (and have owned five Supreme’s over the years. They have attended a number of Supreme Musters (gatherings of Supreme caravan owners) and also organise other events. Kevin & Lucy were a lovely pair and also a wealth of information to us, with tips and tricks for our ongoing travels.They also suggested we try the Euston Pub Royal Hotel/Terrace 31 bistro for dinner.

It was a new’ish little pub full of locals having a beer and a yarn after work. The Terrace 31 bistro was a bit quiet (read empty) when we got there but had a few diners by the time we left. The bistro was all brick and had a number of four-seat booths, enclosed by walls on three sides. Very comfortable and very private.

Euston Royal Hotel Bistro

It was usual pub fare. Jo had Salt’n’Pepper Calamari, which was generous, tender and served with a very fresh salad. I had a beef schnitzel with gravy, chips and vege’s. This was good, honest pub food… well cooked and reasonably priced. The beer was cold and Jo’s Pinot Grigio was quite a nice drop.

After dinner we had a quick drive around the town noticing that the Euston Club also operates a ‘self contained’ (no power/water) caravan park behind the club on the banks of the river as well as their being a Euston caravan park. Another nice little town making a living from agriculture along the Murray.

Preparing to Leave

Sad to say that upon returning to our van after dinner, there was an ambulance at one of the vans across from ours with a camper down on the ground being attended to. It looked like it may have been a heart attack. Everything looked under control and nobody appeared overly distressed so we tried not to be nosy and kept our distance. We noted that, sadly, this is probably not too uncommon a sight with many of the caravan park campers being grey nomads a few years older than us. Just one more reason to get out and do our travelling while we’re still relatively young and healthy.

Murray Twilight

(It later turned out that the gent had not suffered a heart attack but had walked into the annex strut of his camper van, smacking his head causing him to fall down and fracture his hip. Still not good but probably better than a heart attack…)

On a positive note… the Murray put on yet another magnificent evening display on our last night. Very hard to move on from a place like this that calms your mind, soothes your soul and nourishes your spirit…

Day 14-20 Mildura

So.. back to civilisation after three wonderful days in Mungo National Park. The road from Mungo Main Campsite to Mildura was very similar to the road from Balranald; red dirt, corrugations, lumpy white hard-top and finally some bitumen. I would say that the road to Mildura was a bit rougher than from Balranald but the Cruiser and the Van handled everything perfectly. This time we put some padding between the sliding doors and their tracks so that they didn’t bounce out and that pretty much did the trick.

Thermal Cooker (Chicken Paprikash)

Before we left home Aldi were having one of their caravan and camping specials weeks. We picked up one of their thermal cookers, similar to the ‘Ecopot‘ but much cheaper. The thermal cooker is basically a big thermos that acts like a Crock Pot slow cooker by sealing in heat after having cooked the food to boiling point on a the stove.

Chicken Paprikash

We christened the thermal cooker with ‘Chicken Paprikash’ based on the simple but incredibly flavourful Hungarian dish introduced to us by close friends. The results were excellent and we’re looking forward to other slow braise recipes in the future. You can also make yoghurt in it, which we will try at some point in time.

Mildura

Mildura Town Centre

It’s probably around twenty years since we were last in Mildura and we really enjoyed it last time around. Our first impression on driving in is that it has grown a bit and changed a bit but also that it seemed a bit quieter.

We were a little sad that Hudak’s Bakery in the centre of town had disappeared; Hudak’s still have bakeries but the two storey café bakery is now a coffee shop under new owners. There were quite a few closed shops in the centre of town that may be casualties of COVID but also of the larger Midura Central shopping district.

Mildura Parks From P.B. Rothbury

The Murray River is still very impressive as you cross into Victoria (no sign of border-checking anywhere) and the park area and river walk, where the paddle boats dock, is absolutely beautiful. We’ve never seen so many grass tennis courts in one location as there are at the Mildura Lawn Tennis Club. There’s also a sizable brown snake  living in the bush near it. It slid across the path about three metres in front of us so quickly that I only saw it’s last half disappearing into the bushes.

We pulled up for seven nights in Mildura to have a decent break, set up the annex for the first time, and explore the area. Jo wanted very much to have a meal Stefano’s but it was booked solid for the week and although we were on the waiting  list we weren’t able to secure a table during our stay. Lots of other options though.

BIG4 NRMA Riverside Caravan Park

Mildura Van Site

This BIG4 NRMA Riverside Caravan Park is on the edge of town and backs onto the Murray. It’s a large’ish caravan park designed for family holidays, etc. with a bouncing pad, pool with slides, etc.

Murray River Selfie

We booked a powered ‘en-suite’ site for a bit of luxury, meaning we had our own private shower and toilet behind the van. The site itself was very ‘squeezy’ length-wise with our hitch only just off the driveway. We had to change sites because our first allocation was about two metres too short. Width-wise there was plenty of room giving us a chance to set up the full annex for the first time.

Our site was right next to the pool and bouncing pad so the first night was a bit noisy but being a Saturday most pulled out the next day so the place quieted down for the bulk of the week,

Mildura Van Site
Lock 11 & Weir Entrance
Mildura Riverside Walk
Mildura Town Centre
Mildura Weir
Chaffey Steam Pump
Bridge Over Lock 11
High Side of Mildura Weir
Midura Weir Close Up
Mildura Weir Low Side
Mildura Weir Works Area
Mildura Wharf Panorama
Mildura Wharf Riverside
Weeping Tree at Mildura Wharf
Mildura Worker’s Club Bar Map
Murray Behind the Caravan Park
Murray River behind Caravan Park
Murray River behind Caravan Park
Murray-Darling Junction
Murray-Darling Junction
Selfie et the Murray-Darling Junction
Murray River Bank
River Walk
Weeping Tree at Mildura Wharf

Our first day was spent relaxing, washing and doing a bit grocery shopping after running stocks down at Lake Mungo. On day 2 we ventured down to the river and followed the walk from the main wharf all the way down to Lock 11 (and the Mildura Wier) and Lock Island. It’s a beautiful walk with pop-up coffee shop cafes, things to see like the Chaffey Steam Pump, Riverboats, Parks, Tennis Courts, Lock 11 and the odd venomous snake (if you’re lucky).

Midura Brewery
Mildura Brewery

After a long walk it was a no-brainer to head into the town center and stop in at the Mildura Brewery for a cleansing ale… I can highly recommend the Mildura Brewery Honey Wheat, which is clean, bright and totally refreshing on a hot afternoon. Jo, not being a beer fan, opted for a Rekorderlig Strawberry/Lime Cider that was equally refreshing although a little on the sweet side.

Worker’s Club
Mildura Worker’s Club Bar Map

It’s always good to go out for a club meal when you’re in a country town (that’s big enough to have a club or clubs). The Mildura Worker’s Club is one of those straight-forward, meat-raffle, pokies and beer clubs. However, it has the distinction of having once had the longest bar in the world. Sad to say that the longest bar has since disappeared to accommodate pokies, bistro, sports lounge, etc… but the do have a pamphlet showing the layout of the old bar juxtaposed over the new bar and massive it was. There is a wall sized photo of it in the sports lounge so it still figures in the club atmosphere.

Mildura Worker’s Club Roast

The bistro was quite good with a mixture of contemporary meals and club favourites. Jo had a grilled chicken breast on a bed of beetroot risotto, which was a bit different and quite nice, whereas I had the good ol’ club lamb roast. Very generous and comforting.

We decided to run $20 through the pokies and ended up with $15 profit, which paid for one round of drinks, so that was a little bonus.

Paddle Boat Rothbury
Through Lock 11
River Bank from P.B. Rothbury
Lily pads
Cormorant on the Murray
After the cruise
Paddle Boat Rothbury

When in Mildura it is a must to take a cruise on a paddle boat. Unfortunately the steam paddle boat (Melbourne) was not operating but the Rothbury, a diesel powered  paddle boat, was filling in. We opted for a two hour morning cruise, down through Lock 11 and further down the Murray past beautiful river-front homes, camping grounds and banks lined with river gums.

Through Lock 11

Passing through Lock 11 it was most interesting to feel the entire paddle boat dropping (and later) rising as the lock emptied (and flooded) allowing the paddle boat to move down (or up) to the new river level. Quite amazing large scale engineering. The Rothbury itself was a lovely old girl, built from a hundred year old river barge. It is a soothing, quiet vessel with a rhythmic ‘wash – wash – wash’ sound as the paddles churn away and she rolls down the river.

Orange World Orchards
Orange World Orchard
Buddha’s Finger Oranges
New Mandarin Trees
Orange World Orchard

Orange World is one of those quirky Australian tourist attractions that is centered on a family-owned citrus orchard in Buronga, just over the river (NSW) from Mildura. At first sight it looks a little dated and tired but after having visited I rate as a must-see-must-do.

At the front of the orchards is a little shop that sells the usual knick-knacks and citrus related products. They operate a tractor-train ride through the orchard ($12.50), which is guided by ‘Mario’ an Italian born immigrant from Belgium. Mario is one of those people who makes you feel completely welcome and is able to educate you thoroughly on citrus growing whilst keeping you interested and chuckling all the time.

Buddha’s Finger Oranges

We were shown all the varieties of citrus (oranges, mandarins, lemons, cumquats, grapefruit) and also given the raw facts of citrus growing. They have ten thousand trees in their orchard and make 40c/kilo for oranges, whereas they make 90c/kg for mandarins. Consequently they are converting, via grafting, many of their orange trees into mandarin trees, because this is faster than planting new trees. Their ten thousand trees are picked over six months by only four pickers (two married couples from Greece and Spain) who earn about $30 per 400kg bin.

New Mandarin Trees

Having visited and thoroughly enjoyed Orange World we are now especially aware of the importance of buying Australian grown oranges, juices and citrus products. People like Mario love their orchards and work extremely hard to produce the highest quality fruit. We all need to keep these people in profit instead of buying imported produce.

Yabby Seat in Wentworth
Wentworth Log Sculpture
Murray-Darling Junction
Murray-Darling Junction

After Orange World we kept travelling west through Dareton to Wentworth. Both very quaint little inland towns. Not a lot in either town but charming in their own right.

Wentworth Log Sculpture

Wentworth is the junction of the Murray and Darling rivers and has a well kept riverside park with viewing tower that provides a high view of the river junctions. The park also has a carved log depicting river fish coming out of the log. Quite a nice sculptural piece.

Wentworth also has an historic gaol but we opted not to visit as we weren’t feeling terribly ‘custodial’ on the day. It is a pleasant little town with a few pubs to choose from.

On the way back to Mildura we were treated to a small dust storm as the winds and temperature picked up going through Merbein.

Trentham Estate Entrance
Trentham Estate River Path
Trentham Estate Terrace
Terrace at Trentham Estate
Trentham Estate Terrace
Trentham Estate Wharf
Trentham Estate Lawns
Waiting for Lunch
Trentham Estate Garden Terrace
Trentham Estate Garden Path
Trentham Estate Garden
Cheers at Trentham Estate
Pork Belly, Chips and Duck
Trentham Estate Dessert
Trentham Estate Terrace

Whilst we couldn’t get a table at Stefano’s, we were able to get a table for lunch at Trentham Estate, about 20 minutes way, on the NSW banks of the Murray River.

Trentham Estate grounds are beautifully kept with luscious lawns and gardens leading down to the river’s edge, where there is a long wharf area that houseboats can moor up on for a visit. The gardens are very well kept and laid out with tables on the lawn under the gums and on the terrace of the restaurant/tasting room.

Trentham Estate River Path

At one point an employee was dispatched to wrangle our scaly friend from the Lawn Tennis Club (or one of his relatives). No danger to guests though.

We did a thorough wine tasting going through most of the range of whites and reds. Jo (and I) was particularly impressed with the Pinot Gris (which was a bit of surprise to her) and I was most impressed by the Estate Shiraz (and not so much by the more expensive Reserve Shiraz). In any case, we came away with a half-dozen bottles on order ready for when we return home.

Trentham Estate Garden

Interestingly enough, the young lady who served us at the Worker’s Club the previous night was also our wine tasting host at Trentham Estate. What’s the odds?

Pork Belly, Chips and Duck

After wine tasting came lunch with a complimentary bottle of wine (having signed up to the Trentham Estate wine club). Jo had Peking Duck Breast and I went for the Pork Belly. Both were very rich, tender and beautifully presented. The pork was velvety soft with crispy crackling on a salad with fennel. The duck was fully-flavoured  with Hoisin sauce also on a bed of salad including mango. A beautiful meal in a beautiful setting on a magnificent river.

Life’s good!

Day 11-13 Mungo National Park

So… we set off from Balranald, a bit sad to leave such a comfortable camp site. Before we left though we stocked up on some meat from the Balranald Butcher, beers and cider, water, nibbles and wine. The bottle-shop was selling a local wine label ( ‘Masterpeace’) by a wine-maker named Andrew Peace located in Piangil, Victoria.

Balranald Butcher Porterhouse Steaks

Without jumping ahead too much, the Pinot Grigio ($15) was very pleasant and the 2019 Shiraz ($19) was most unexpected and thoroughly enjoyed with two of the best porterhouse steaks we have ever had (from the Balranald Butcher Shop) and the last of our home-grown vege’s cooked beautifully on the BabyQ.

Mungo Main Campsite
Mungo National Park.
Mungo Visitor Center Sign
Camel Melon
Ubiquitous Bluebush
Mungo Local In-Flight
Mungo Skies
Small Lizard at Walls of China
Lake Mungo Visitor Center and Station
The Road To Mungo National Park
Mungo National Park.

Heading west from Balranald you get a fair way on the bitumen until it runs out and then its a cautious but not overly difficult drive on the dirt to Mungo National Park. Its a mixture of smooth red dirt/clay, patches of corrugations and a hard-top white surface that is rougher than the red corrugated dirt.

The van towed beautifully, never once causing any concern with sway or drift as we shook our way to Mungo National Park. No damage occurred and the only real evidence of a rough ride was a dozen stones wedged in the grooves of the ‘Rock Tamers‘ (over-size mudflaps), some shifting in the cupboards and… both sliding doors inside the van had lifted off their tracks (no damage to doors or tracks though). The drive also shook all the loose saw-dust and metal filings out of the nooks and crannies from when the van was built.

The Cruiser handled everything magnificently and it’s fair to say that when towing on the smooth red clay/sand stretches it was actually smoother and easier than on the bitumen. The trick with the corrugations is to get up to the right speed to ‘skate/float’ across the ridge tops (usually between 70 and 80kph).

Mungo Main Campground
Mungo Main Campsite

We actually missed the campground turnoff and towed the extra 2km to the Visitor Center but there was ample parking for large vehicles. Once back at campground we were quickly set up and surprised to find large sites, usually with a table and bench seats, clean crushed rock and plenty of space.

In the centre of the campground was a set of immaculate long-drop toilets, stocked with toilet paper and a tank for hand-washing. The Visitor Center has flushing toilets and (free) hot showers, which we took advantage of on our last day.

Sunset Over the Dunes
Afternoon Sky
Lake Mungo Dunes
Lake Mungo Dunes
Pinnacle at the Walls of China
Walls of China Formation
Erosion Gully Formations
Erosion Gully Sunset
Heavy Skies and Erosion
Heavy Skies and Erosion
Heavy Skies and Erosion
Dunes Pre-sunset
Dunes Jaw Bone Fossil
Amazing Dunes Sunset
Amazing Dunes Sunset
We Were Here
Jaw Bone Fossil
Shadows Before Sunset
Red Sand Formations
Pre Sunset
Lake Mungo Sunset
Red Sand Formation
Red Sand Channels
Walls of China Vista
Walls of China Peak
Layering in the Walls of China
Walls of China outcrops
Lake bottom seen from the Walls of China
Erosion Gullies and Formations
Walls of China Formations
Amazing formations in the dunes
Walls of China dunes
The Walls of China
Walls of China
Walls of China Vista
Gullies in the dunes
The Sphynx
The Sphynx
Formation at Twilight
Mungo Sunset Vista
Ancient Tree Roots
Pinnacle Formation at Twilight
On Top of the Dune
Dune Crest Sunset
Sunset at the Walls of China
The Dunes at Sunset
Mungo Dunes at Sunset
Erosion Gully
Mungo Formation at Sunset
Mungo Outcrop at Sunset
Mungo Local In-Flight

After setting up at Mungo Main Campground we headed off to the Walls of China on the Mungo Loop Road. Unfortunately for us the Mungo Loop Road was mostly closed dues to heavy rain damage. The Visitor Center person at Balranald also suggested that the loop was closed to traffic due to a major archeological find (which was later confirmed by our Sunset Tour Guide).

Small Lizard at Walls of China

The Walls of China are about 10km from the Mungo Visitor Center on a white sand hard-top. When you reach them there is a boardwalk from the carpark to the dunes that mark the start of the Walls of China, which is the western side of the Mungo lake bed.

We Were Here

The Walls of China are a bit Mystical, somewhat Magical and absolutely Magnificent. Over a hundred thousand years of the lake filling and drying, filling and drying… filling and drying has produced layers and formations that are striking, unique and other-worldly.

Jaw Bone Fossil

It is an arid landscape that still supports abundant flora and fauna as well as archeological treasures that equal any other in the world. The remains of Mungo Man and Mungo Lady are dated over 42,000 years old from a time when the lake was 15m deep and supported abundant fish, shellfish  and land-based animals.

Mungo Sunset Tour
Lake Mungo Sunset

We can’t recommend the Mungo Sunset Tour enough. When booked through NSW National Parks you get an indigenous guide and are able to walk up into the dunes of the Walls of China. The indigenous guide explains indigenous culture and stories of the region as well as the archeology of Mungo Man and Mungo Lady. They also  explain how the indigenous groups look after their country by naturally regenerating native vegetation and  fish stocks.

Dune Crest Sunset

She explained, on this day, that the emus were migrating from the west over the Walls of China, which meant that ‘big rain’ was coming. Coincidentally… this is when the flooding started in the coastal areas after we left Mungo National Park.

Big Skies and Weather
Mungo Skies

Even though we were only here for three days we experienced heat, rain, cooling breezes, dust and all kinds of sky… The only thing we didn’t get was lightening, which we were told is spectacular.

Amazing formations in the dunes

Clouds would form and disappear, threaten and fade, and on one occasion let down a thirty minute shower that barely wet the ground before it dried up again.

Track to Zanci Station
Midway to Zanci Station looking back
Zanci Station walking track mid-way.
Cypress Pine
Zanci Station Sheep Pens
Zanci Station Fireplace
Zanci Station Derelict Structure
Zanci Station Derelict Machinery
Zanci Station – Raised Water Tank
Close-up view of the stables at Zanci Station
Stables at Zanci Station
Sheep Pen at Zanci Station
Looking out from Zanci shearing shed
Inside Zanci shearing shed
Approaching Zanci Shearing Shed
Zanci Station Root Cellar
Zanci Station Root Cellar
Zanci Station In-ground Water Tank
Zanci Station Fireplace
Zanci Station derelict structure
Track to Zanci Station

On the second day we did the 8km round trip walk to neighbouring Zanci Station, which starts at the Mungo Visitor Center. A derelict sheep station that has been preserved for historic value. The track is medium grade and takes you up onto the top of the Lake Mungo shoreline amongst Cypress Pines and and grazing flats.

Close-up view of the stables at Zanci Station

Upon reaching Zanci Station you can wander amongst the homestead ruins and the remarkably well-preserved shearing shed and stables. We had the entire walk to ourselves apart from one couple going the other way on our way back.

Zanci Station Root Cellar

The ruins show a harsh existence in an arid climate that was built on the blood, sweat and tears of people much hardier than ourselves. Life here would have been hard work and represented a lifestyle more than an occupation. We thoroughly recommend the trek to Zanci Station but take water stop to read the signs to get the most out of the experience.

Mungo Station Sheep Pens
Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Sheep Pens
Mungo Station Wool Presses
Platform Structure at Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Shearing Shed Steam Engine
Mungo Station Shearing Shed Stands
Mungo Station Shearing Shed Pens
Inside the Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Mungo Station Shearing Shed and Pens
Mungo Station Shearing Shed
Ground Tank (Dam) – Mungo Station
Mungo Station Shearing Shed and Pens

The Mungo Visitor Center is located on the site of what was formerly Mungo Station. The Mungo Station shearing shed and surrounds have been very well maintained and, like Zanci Station, provide a glimpse into the harsh but rewarding life of past times.

Mungo Station Shearing Shed Stands

The sheer immensity of the shearing shed and its hand hewn cypress pine timbers are amazing to see and you can easily imagine the rowdy, boisterous thrum of activity when the shearing shed was in full swing for a handful of weeks each year.

Mungo Shearing Shed Steam Engine

The timbers still seem as strong today as the were back in the day due to the hardiness and termite resistant properties of the cypress pine wood. As well as the shearing shed there is a partially restored in-ground water tank as well as the expansive sheep pens. Also on display are some of the old manual wool presses and the steam engine that powered the shearing hand pieces. The sheep are long gone from Mungo Station but you can still feel the atmosphere and imagine the atmosphere of the shearing shed in full action at shearing time.

Lake Mungo was a bucket list item for us and having finally got here in our van unscathed and in relative comfort was a major achievement. We recommend March as being a very good time of year to visit. It is hot enough to emphasise the arid climate without being uncomfortable with cooling afternoon breezes and big clear skies. We couldn’t planned a better Mungo experience (except maybe for the full loop track).

Day 8-10 – Balranald


Jo Driving the Hay Plain
A very very happy morning Jo
Volt meter and fridge
Resmed Air Mini CPAP machine
Solar blanket car plug-in
Solar Blanket on windscreen
Solar Blanket showing plug
Home Improvement
Jo posing on suspension bridge
Old Man Gum Tree
Jo on the river walk suspension Bridge
Caravan Park Structure
Baby Goat On River Walk
Hay Plain Panorama
Balranald Van Site
Balranald Van Site
Magnificent Murrumbidgee
Balranald Frog Sculpture
Hay Plain Emptiness
Hay Plain Emptiness

We left Hay after a slightly cooler night and headed off along the Hay Plain to Balranald. Jo took the wheel for the first time this trip. Plenty of trucks on the road and Jo managed to overtake a horse float on the way out of town.

Jo Driving the Hay Plain

The Hay Plain is a long flat expanse of big sky and emptiness, except for the agricultural holdings and the odd mob of emus. It’s hard to imagine what Burke & Wills and Charles Sturt must have thought when faced with all of this ‘barrenness’ in front of them.

Balranald

Balranald Frog Sculpture

Balranald is smaller again than Hay but looks prosperous enough even though we arrived on a Sunday and most of the shops were shut.

The town has scattered around it a number of sculptures depicting the Southern Bell Frog, which is an endangered species found along the Murrumbidgee Corridor.

Balranald Caravan Park

Balranald Van Site

Balranald Caravan Park is situated right on the banks of the Murrumbidgee as you come across the bridge (from Hay). It’s quite spacious and very well kept. We chose a grassed drive-through site with some of the thickest, lushest grass I have ever walked on. No levelling of the van was required and setup was quick and hassle-free. From the park it is an easy walk into town and passes a suspension bridge that re-crosses the river to a loop walk.

On the day we arrived we met Chris & Jill, owners of a Supreme Territory, who were keen to have a look at our Supreme Executive and gave us a heap of excellent tips and advice based on their experience.

A very very happy morning Jo

It was quite chilly when we woke up on he first morning but it was nice to snuggle under the doona for a change instead of lying on top of the sheets all night in the heat. Jo was in good spirits after a good night’s sleep.

River Walk

Jo posing on suspension bridge

As with Narrandera and Hay, Balranald also has a beautiful river walk along the banks of the Murrumbidgee. Balranald‘s river walk is characterised by starting with a suspension bridge located just outside the caravan park. Once across the bridge you can walk through the magnificent river gums and make your way back to the traffic bridge to re-cross the river and head back to the caravan park or keep going into town for a coffee.

The corellas assemble in the thousands near the caravan park and create an almighty racket that continues on throughout the day.

Home Improvements

Home Improvement

Since our next stop will be Mungo National Park we took the opportunity to try out an idea for a quick privacy sun shade on the awning. Instead of going to the bother of setting up one (or two) or the annex walls… we created some loops of cord inserted through thin plastic tubing that allows us to suspend a cheap plastic tarp from the annex in a similar but quicker way than the annex wall. All it needs is the home-made loops, a few tent pegs and a few bungy cords and ‘instant privacy/shade’. Very happy

Day 5-7 – Hay

After Narrandera it was off to Hay, the half-way point between Sydney and Adelaide and the start of the Hay Plain. Despite the weather being generally hot and dry… it rained heavily and steadily for a large portion of the drive from Narrandera to Hay. It was a good chance to get some wet weather towing experience and also learning how to let big trucks overtake.

Veal Parmi for dinner
Bulleit Rye Bourbon
First BabyQ Meal
First BabyQ Fire-up
Our Hay Caravan Park Site
Wool Bale Dray
Wool Press and Stone Grinding Wheel
Steam Engine
Windmill and Tank
Shearing shed at the Shearers Hall of Fame
Shearers Hall of Fame
Our collapsible Clothes Line
Hay Caravan Park Pool
Water Tower Art
Water Tower Art
Ahhhh…air conditioning,
Dappled Light Through a River Gum
Murrumbidgee River Gum
River Walk Sculpture
River Walk Sculpture

Hay

Water Tower Art

Hay is smaller than Narrandera but seems to be thriving town with three or so pubs and a long strip of shops that seem to be doing OK. We stopped into the Home Hardware store (twice) to buy some smaller tent pegs and a BBQ brush. This shop had everything…and I mean everything.

Caravan Park

Our Hay Caravan Park Site

The caravan park (there’s two plus a free camp) is on the edge of town and is very spacious with good, clean amenities, friendly manager and equally friendly park dog (Lola).

Hay Caravan Park Pool

Plenty of green grass underfoot and a good sized pool that we gratefully cooled off in on the second day. The park wasn’t full by an stretch but had a steady flow of travellers coming and going each day.

The park is close to the highway so gets a bit of traffic noise but not so bad as to be annoying. On two nights though there was a constant wailing of what sounded like ‘car alarms’ that I can only assume was being used to scare birds or bats away from a farm.

Van Life at Hay

First BabyQ Fire-up

We took the opportunity set up the Weber BabyQ for the first time after visiting the Hay Butcher. We had brought, from home, a stack of carrots, zucchinis and apples from our vege garden and apple trees. So our first meal from the BabyQ was pork chops, carrots, zucchini, potato and apple sauce. I was a little skeptical of the BabyQ at first but I have to say that it was absolutely brilliant and so good that we had the same again the next night with porterhouse steaks instead of pork chops.

Bulleit Rye Bourbon

After the meals it was very pleasant sitting out under the stars sipping on a Bulleit Rye bourbon (Kahlua for Jo). The Bulleit Rye is a very smooth bourbon that’s a little naturally sweeter than other bourbons I have tried. Kahlua is, well, Kahlua.

Veal Parmi for dinner

The weather forecast for our last day said it would be gusty with possible rain on our last night so we took this as an opportunity to have a pub meal at one of Hay’s pubs. We were originally going to try the South Hay Hotel because it was just down the road but when we arrived it looked as though it was packed out with a function so we went in the Riverina Hotel in town. When we got there there was a 60th birthday going on but we managed to grab a table there. We both had a ‘Veal Parmi’, which was massive, thick and just simply a bloody good value pub meal.

Shearers Hall of Fame

Shearers Hall of Fame

Hay is home to the Shearers Hall of Fame (Shear Outback). It’s a well presented attraction that commemorates the great Australian shearers and showcases the history of shearing over the years. We went to shearing demonstration and had a good chat with the shearer who told us all about the life of shearer and how it is becoming a dying art in Australia with most of the shearing teams, these days, flying in from New Zealand. He was genuinely nice bloke who loved his lifestyle but you could see that it was costing a toll on his body.

Water Tower Art

Water Tower Art

As you enter the township you can see the Hay water towers that are painted with mural depicting Hay’s contribution to the second world war effort. They are striking and emblematic of the town. They’re well worth walking too for a closer look if only to admire the skill and effort required to produce such large scale art work.

River Walk

River Walk Sculpture

Hay also has walking loop that follows the banks of the Murrumbidgee, which includes a number of fitness stations and sculptures. It’s a really pleasant walk that provided us with a bit much needed exercise and takes you to the edge of town where you can go off track a little bit and grab a coffee at the Black Sheep Cafe. The coffee was good and you can sit in the shade in the front garden, relax and chill for a while.

Days 2-4 – Narranderra

So… a nice easy tow from Jugiong to Narrandera.

Wet Pack Up
Wetlands
Wetlands Walk flow control gate
Wetlands Walk Start
Trunk Route Memorial
150th Anniversary Monument
Charles Sturt Memorial
River Walk
Tailor-Shop
Grandfather’s Tailor Shop
Services-Memorial-Park
Narrandera Services Memorial Park
Picture-Theatre
Grandfather’s Picture Theatre
Water-Tanks
Water tanks near Jo’s grandpaerent’s address
Hydro-Hotel
Historic Hydro Motor-Inn
CP-Site
Narrandera Van Site
CP-Mandy-Smith
Mandy Smith Tribute
Service Memorial Park Entrance
Jo-Grandparents-Shed
Jo’s Grandparent’s Shed (at back)
Chilie/Cheese/Bacon Bread. So good…

Rob’s Link With Narrandera

Grandfather’s Picture Theatre

Narrandera is Rob’s father’s birth place where his Dad owned a tailor’s shop and also ran the local picture theatre back in the day. On our last morning we caught up with Jo’s pseudo-cousin, passing through from Wagga to Griffith, at the Narrandera Bakery for a coffee. After that we went on a quest to find my Grandfather’s Tailor Shop. At the Tourist Information Centre they suggested we go to the library and there we were greeted by a stereotypical, grey-haired, elderly librarian, with a nice smile, who dug out some historical volumes for us.

Grandfather’s Tailor Shop (I think)

We discovered that there were four shops listed as tailors between 1930 and 1960. We walked to all four but I had a vague recollection of Dad saying that it was just around the corner from the theatre. So after inspecting all four I decided that the most likely candidate was the shop shown in this picture.

Narrandera

Narrandera is on the Murrumbidgee River and is considered to be the gateway to the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area. At this time of year (March) it is still hot (around 30°C) and very dry. Everywhere is still quite green though.

The town centre is a typical country town strip and there’s at least three pubs, maybe more, in operation so it’s certainly a living breathing place. Some of the shops though are only open from Wednesday to Friday so that speaks to a quiet economy.

Chilie/Cheese/Bacon Bread. So good…

The big find was the Narrandera Bakery in the center of town. We both enjoyed an extremely good meat pie, however the masterpiece was their Bacon/Chilie/Cheese loaf. A beautiful, cloud-soft, crusty white loaf permeated with, yep, bacon, chilie and cheese. So good…

Our Stay

Our site in the shrubs

Narrandera Caravan Park is a cosy little park near, but not on, the Murrumbidgee River just outside the town.  It uses bore water to keep the grass from dying off and it’s nice to have a level site with concrete strips for the van and plenty of grass to set the chairs out on. The entire caravan park is surrounded by a three metre man-made levee that is designed to keep the park safe from floods, which can get pretty deep when the Murrumbidgee breaks its banks.

Mandy Smith ‘Tribute’

A testament to this is a life size poster of a bikini-clad ‘Mandy Smith‘ in the men’s showers. It’s not a completely sexist act but rather a homage to her resilience for wading waist-deep through flood waters for ‘three days’ when she stayed in Narrandera during the 2012 flood (8.9m). The little placard in the bottom left explains this.

Nearby Leeton

Jo’s Grandparent’s Shed {at back)

On our second day we took a drive over to Leeton, only thirty km’s away. This is where Jo’s grandparents (Mum’s side) lived. We did a quick drive to the address where they lived. The old house has since been demolished and replaced by a new residence. The original shed can be seen out the back though. (It wasn’t at all creepy parking in front of the house and taking a photo,,,😟)

Leeton is a fruit growing town and also the headquarters for SunRice. It’s another typical country town and has a larger shopping center than Narrandera with an art-deco architectural vibe. It also has the typical main street country town Chinese restaurants, two of them side-by-side (only in a town like Leeton…).

Historic Hydro Motor-Inn
Water tanks near Jo’s grandparent’s address

On the way into town we noticed a sign for ‘fresh figs’ so on the way out we stopped down a side-street on the edge of town and bought some fresh figs and peaches. It was so nice to taste fresh fruit that is left to ripen on the tree instead of the gas-ripened rocks that masquerade as fresh fruit in the supermarkets.

Narrandera Wetlands

Wetlands Walk flow control gate

On our last afternoon we enjoyed a bee-sting from the Narrandera Bakery and then worked it off by taking a walk from the Caravan Park to the nearby Narrandera Wetlands project. The round trip took a bit over an hour and crossed the Murrumbidgee River before arriving at the Charles Sturt Memorial.

Wetlands

We followed a loop track around the wetland area, which was man-made and incorporated some flood mitigation controls to allow water in and out of the wetlands. There were a number ‘hides’ around the track that provided a viewing window into the wetlands and identified the various birds that inhabit it. We observed Yellow Spoonbills, Ibis and various other native species… and a lone Pelican. Near the wetlands there was also a Koala Reserve although we didn’t spot any.

Packing Up

Wet Pack Up

Although the weather was hot and dry in Narrandera the last morning brought a good downpour, which I am sure was much welcomed by the locals. As expected though… the rain started as soon as we started our pack-up… and ended as soon as we finished packing up. It did start again on the drive to Hay, which gave us some good practice at towing in the rain and on wet roads.

Day 1 – Jugiong

So… finally we’re away on our five week shakedown trip to Mungo National Park. Accordingly… in the days before we left our septic system kept tripping its circuit breaker and our kitchen sink blocked up requiring continual plunging to keep clearing it. Problems deferred for the time being… Mungo awaits.

Inspecting something unimportant
Long Track Pantry outside eating area
Happy hour at Jugiong
The Murrumbidgee at Jugiong
15m from van

First stop, an overnighter at Jugiong Showground. Jugiong is a perfect little country village just off the highway  between Yass and Gundgai.

Chairs before beers

The showground is a no booking, donation camp site with a huge amount of space where you choose your own site. When we arrived there were probably fifty camps already set up and it still looked relatively empty. We snaffled a nice grassy area by the Murrumbidgee  River.

Cheers to travelling at last

There followed a relaxing afternoon with a quick nap prior to happy hour and a raucous chorus of sulphur crested cockatoos. Happy hour at 5:00 to celebrate the first day and many days to come…

Outdoor eating area

The next morning was breakfast at the Long Track Pantry just across the road. We both had the Brekkie Roll, which was your basic bacon, egg and cheese roll but with a sweeter bun and pancetta instead of bacon. Very, very nice and the coffee was very good… smooth, good temp. and not bitter (no sugar required).

After a satisfying brekkie… a quick pack up and off to Narrandera.